Flak Posted November 27, 2022 Share Posted November 27, 2022 Hello all, attached is a pic from Blue's tips. I am jerry rigging my own EFI fusible link wiring because you can't find them anymore. Looking at getting 2 green fusible link wires, splicing them together, then bullet connectoring them to the positive battery terminal cable. I have the amperage in this pic, I just need to know what gauge wire/bullet connector to get for 40 amps. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted November 27, 2022 Share Posted November 27, 2022 (edited) The Red link info is wrong. It should say Brown and be 0.3. It's in the FSM's. Motorsport auto has links. https://www.thezstore.com/isearch3?searchterm=fusible Not clear what this means. The size is shown right next to the link. 0.69 mm^2. "what gauge wire/bullet connector to get" Edited November 27, 2022 by NewZed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flak Posted November 27, 2022 Author Share Posted November 27, 2022 56 minutes ago, NewZed said: The Red link info is wrong. It should say Brown and be 0.3. It's in the FSM's. Motorsport auto has links. https://www.thezstore.com/isearch3?searchterm=fusible Not clear what this means. The size is shown right next to the link. 0.69 mm^2. "what gauge wire/bullet connector to get" Not sure what you're saying here? I need the red wire? Are you just stating a discrepancy in Blue's chart? Does size correspond to wire guage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted November 28, 2022 Share Posted November 28, 2022 I was just pointing out an error in the illustration. For you and any other future viewers. I don't know what mean by gauge wire or bullet connector. The links on the MSA page already have female spade connections attached. I'd guess that they match the size on the fusible link block. You could just run two separate green link circuits, they don't need to be attached at one end. One to the red wire wire and to the blue wire. (L = blue on the Nissan diagrams.) Many battery positive cables come with a separate positive lead for exactly what you need to do here. Or you can use two eyelets on the clamping screws. Many ways to get it done. Soldering, butt joints, a terminal block (actually convenient for adding other loads), etc. Just an example on the cable, not sure on length - https://www.amazon.com/Deka-00297-Positive-Battery-Cable/dp/B000JYDHY8/ref=asc_df_B000JYDHY8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312632042117&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14175499931833392303&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033307&hvtargid=pla-493894808338&psc=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted November 28, 2022 Share Posted November 28, 2022 p.s. fusible link wire has a silicone insulation that does not melt or burn when the link melts. If you make your own links from regular wire they might save the circuit wiring but also might make a mess if they melt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flak Posted November 28, 2022 Author Share Posted November 28, 2022 (edited) 13 hours ago, NewZed said: p.s. fusible link wire has a silicone insulation that does not melt or burn when the link melts. If you make your own links from regular wire they might save the circuit wiring but also might make a mess if they melt. Thank you for explaining, and sorry for all the questions. I Have that exactly battery cable you sent. I was going to splice 2 of those green fusible links into one, then go to that yellow "bullet connector" pigtail on the battery cable. Although that seems like a lot of work if they don't have to go into 1 wire. I'll look for something like the ideas you suggested, that have "spade" ends to going into the fusible links, no soldering necessary. Thanks again for the help. Edited November 28, 2022 by Flak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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