Newbie looking for help/suggestions

[Guest Anonymous]

Well, I'm finally going to get the chance to build my high school dream car.....a V8 powered Z with the 250 GTO body conversion. I just pucked up a solid 71 240z and have ordered the JTR manual so things are well under way. I do have a few questions though.

 

First, does anybody offer weld-in or bolt-in subframe ties? I definitely want to tie the front and rear frame rails together for increased strength (not to mention piece of mind).

 

Secondly, my Z has the R180 rear end in it and I'm concerned about it holding up to the stout V8 I'll be dropping in (383 stroker backed up by a T56 tranny). I want to keep the independent rear suspension, but I don't know my options for stronger replacements. Is there a stronger rear end that I can easily swap in and still retain the independent suspension?

 

Last but not least, what headers would you recommend? From my reading here, it seems like there's almost to many options. I just want a set that will bolt in easily and offer enough clearence to change the plugs when needed.

 

Thanks in advance for taking the time to answer my questions, and I can't wait to have everything done so I can experience the thrill that you've all been enjoying with a V8 Z-car.

 

Jim

[Guest Anonymous]

The JTR manual will answer many of the questions. The rearend of choice (or necessity depending on how you look at it) is the R200, its pretty much a bolt in.

 

The ideal situation is to use the CV joint halfshafs but it requires a machined adapter to do it easily (one is either available now or soon will be, there was a few limited runs of a adapter, but one member has a Z business and is in the process of getting it to market).

 

With the Cv's most are able to get to the 10's before most tracks will tell you to get a solid rear end or a IRS that has a upper and lower control arms (does anyone make such a animal?).

 

A R230 out of the last gen twin turbo is an option and someone is also working on getting a 'kit' together to make that happen.

 

With both schemes the weak point is the stub axles and without alot of machining theres not much that can be done about that easily. A friend was telling me he couldn't even get a machine shop to make one because most of them don't want the liability of a part like that.

 

How stout an engine are we talking about? Scottie's GNZ makes 500 ft/lbs+ of torque and he had only broken a CV or two. How is the car to be used? Daily driver, weekend bracket racer, pro street, race car? All of these questions will narrow down your selection.

 

I hope these few points will at least give a little bit of a overview of the possibilities. Use the search function if you want to see a HUGE amount of info on these very topics. Hope that helped.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

 

Ps: As far as I know there are no bolt in or welded 'kits' for sub frame connectors, perhaps someone is listening and will fab one up, they could sell quite a few to the members here thats for sure.

[Guest Anonymous]

Thanks for the info LoneInAZ. As far as my engine goes, its a 383 short block with the Edelbrock RPM package rounding out the top (heads, cam, intake, carb). I'm guestimating I'll be in the 400hp range with 425-450ft/lbs.

 

In regards to the rear end, how hard is it to locate a R200 or R230 (and what did they come stock in)?

 

The previous owner of the car had done the V8 conversion, and told me he'd gone through 3 rear ends in it running a stock 60's 327 Vette motor with a Turbo 350 trans. The floors need some work, so I figured I'd add in some frame ties to stiffen things up some while I'm down there.

 

This is primarily going to be a street car, with occassional trips to the track to dust off some unsuspecting Mustangs and Camaro's. I'm more interested in keeping the excellent handling, which is why I want to keep the independant rear susp.

[Tim240z]

As far as a kit for the sub frame connectors:

I don't think it would really be cost effective to offer a kit, shipping would cost a fortune, and they are pretty easy to fab up. Pete's site has some REALLY good info and dimensions and is what I loosely used to make mine.Pete, I hope you don't mind me linking to your site here?!

 

As for rear ends..Lone hit it on the head. I am going with the R230 out of a Q45 just because:

 

1. It is stronger than the R200 (which is strong enough anyway) and waYYYYYY stronger than the R180.

2. Has CV joints which are also very strong

3. Most important reason for me is that they are newer, more available, and have LSD (viscous). The R200s with LSD are getting pretty scarse and add on LSD units are VERY expensive.

 

I am currently working on getting a 'bolt in' kit together for the R230, which will be more expensive than going R200, but I think it will be worth it for the above reasons.

As for headers, I went with the 'el cheapo' Summit blockhuggers, but that is only because I will eventually be building a big ci sbc with TT, so I am saving my header (custom) $$$ for that.

 

Tim

[DavyZ]

The R200 came in most 280Z's. Just be sure that you get an R200 and not an R180 (know the physical differences). The beauty of the R200 is that it is practically a bolt-in in place of a R180. The 230 is best, BUT there is a lot of fabbing needed until Tim comes through with a KIT!!!

 

Davy

[fl327]

my final break down to go ahead and sooner or later run an r230 is wanting to keep my suspension mostly the same and have a tougher rear end with yazzi(posi) and some radical gearing, i cant wait till that kit goes public.

[Guest Anonymous]

Ran across this article today, though the kit is rather expensive. Would be nice to have the strength and countless parts sources (alot cheaper I might add) of the Ford 9", but I can's see spending $4500 for a rear end set-up.

 

id=5588&viewtype=textRear Suspension Article