Guest Anonymous Posted July 6, 2002 Share Posted July 6, 2002 Alright, i recently picked up a non-running turbo Z for 1200 bucks. Took it home and fiddled and figured out it was the crank angle sensor. Runs great now. The motors CPR had been lowered to accept higher boost. I raised the boost to 15 and heard some detonation, so i lowered to 10. 10 lbs is good enough for the time being without a IC. Now, for a boost controller, all i have is a rather crude bleeder valve. It consists of a 3/8's brass tee in between the compressor housing and the wastegate. The excess air is just bled into the atmosphere. Ive tried to route it back to the intake manifold, but only to get a wierd idle control device. Anyways, with the air being bled into the atmosphere it takes a rather long time for the turbo to actually spool up. Whats the best way to route what ive got? The controller itself only seems to be adjustable from 6psi(stock) to 11 lbs. When i ran 15 i just capped the wastegate hose. I just want my turbo to pay attention to when hes being beckoned(yea thats right, the cars a she but the turbos a he). Also, anybody know anything about factory DSM BOV's? the flange is welded to my intake pipe from the compressor to the throttle body. Its got a tiny 1/8 fitting and a 1 1/4 outlet where the spring is. It seems to be opening rather early. Just wanted to know if these things suck? Thanks for any help at all or even just taking the time to read this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 6, 2002 Share Posted July 6, 2002 i forgot to mention that the length of the vac hose connecting the compressor housing to the wastegate is 2 feet because it has to rap around a motor mount with out crimping. If i could fashion this a better way with a shorter lenght would that help in anyway? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted July 6, 2002 Share Posted July 6, 2002 I'm not sure if your problem is the bleeder boost control or not. Try taking the length out of it just to see if it helps. Your slow boost may be due to a plugged cat, or restricted intake. All the folks I know running manual boost controllers swear by the ball-and-spring type rather than bleeders - I had the MSA bleeder type and HATED it. I am running the 1st gen. DSM BOV. It is working very well for me - no leaks, vents into my intake. I'm running 12-13 psi boost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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