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what to do to std block to handle tubo


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

hi iam getting ready to put my motor back twogether .i read that std block is better than tubo one because they bont have the webing in the wather jackets to slow the water down.is this right. what els do i have to do std one i read that some guys bore out the oil hole from the block to head its 1.5m and they take it out to 3m has any boudy done this .how much dause it change oil presuse.what els should i do to my std block.sorry about my speling guys thanks later

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Web support is good for high boost turbo motor. I guess the web support can retrict the water flow but I've had cooler running engine with F54 block.

 

I guess you are talking about two oil jets that supply oil to the head. You can enlarge some for high rev motor but factory size oil jets can support up to about 7000rpm without any cam damage. Don't go too big because then you'll have problem with main/rod bearing oil starvation.

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Use the f54 block since it has the webbing and you are going to be boosting. Nissan makes good blocks, and I doubt you would have a problem with either one, and I would not be scared to use either one, but, if I had an f54 block, that is the one I would use.

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Originally posted by aaron.miller:

what els do i have to do std one i read that some guys bore out the oil hole from the block to head its 1.5m and they take it out to 3m has any boudy done this .how much dause it change oil presuse.what els should i do to my std block.sorry about my speling guys thanks later

I can't think of any valid reason to do this. Increasing the flow of oil to the head will result in a decrease of oil flow to the main crank bearings, which is much more critical.

 

If your head is properly assembled, the stock oiling system will do just fine there.

 

The main bearings rely on a film of oil for the crank to ride on and prevent metal-to-metal contact between the bearing surface and the crank journals- if it is not there, serious problems will result.

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Guest Tim78zt

Aaron, go ahead while you have it opened up and o-ring the block and have it bored with a deck plate torqued in place. Use an ARP head stud kit and you are good to go.

 

Tim78zt

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Guest Tim78zt

Aaron, go ahead while you have it opened up and o-ring the block and have it bored with a deck plate torqued in place. Use an ARP head stud kit and you are good to go.

 

Tim78zt

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Guest Anonymous

thanks for your help will not bore out oil hole to head.can not aford to o ring block i have bort a hks metal head gasket how much boost can they handle and arp stud kit where do u get them from have looked and cant them any where.arp no longer sells them is there a nother company that bourt there stock like nismo safeshopper did with hks gakets and how much do they cost becuase i live nz and i have to duble the price than pay heaps for fright.thanks guys for your help later

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You can get ARP rod bolts from Summit Racing, and if you call them, I am sure they have the head studs too. I am not sure you need them if you use the turbo head bolts. I forgot where you are. Send them an email. I think they can handle that. Also, check with TopEnd, they likely have a line on the studs as well.

 

Make sure the block and head surface are straight. You may want to have a machine shop make a pass on them to make them flat. The HKS gasket can handle plenty of boost.

 

The Nissan Safe shopper also has stouter main cap bolts if you decide you want them too.

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Guest Anonymous

thanks lockjaw for info.i bout those main cap bolts and tubo head bolts from nismo safeshopper i all so got ajustable cam sproket can u tell me the best poshion for the sproket to be in.i no avery engine is differnt. but when first put it back together were ruffly should it be on sproket.thanks for your help later

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Sorry Aaron, but I think you already answered your own question. There are way too many variables involved to say what the best postition is. Really - that is exactly why they make them adjustable. See the recent thread about what is the best head for Mikunis for more details.

 

The only approach that I can recommend is to start with the sprocket at the stock setting, and start going 3 degrees in either direction, until you find the spot that works the best for you. Keep in mind that depending on what FI system you are using (especially if it's a speed-density setup like most of the aftermarket units use), you will very likely have to retune the fuel delivery each time you change the cam timing.

 

Personally, I think that the people that sell the adjustable cam sprockets are a bit irresponsible, in that they don't point out how much work is involved in finding the right settings. They can be a very powerful tuning tool, but I would be willing to bet that 90% of the people that buy these don't have them set properly. It's bad enough with our single cam motors - I have to laugh every time I see some kid with a Honda with two adjustable sprokets and a fart can exhaust.

 

Which sprocket did you get? Was it the Nissan comp one with the eight adjustment holes, or was it one of the vernier types (Unorthodox Racing, etc)?

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Guest Anonymous

thanks timz i got nissan comp one from nismosafeshopper it cost me all most 220 bucks because i live in nz you have to duble it 93 bucks usa.i know what u mein about cam timing its just that dyno machine time is so dear over hear .i am runing link engine managment system so will have to set that up as well .do know any boudy who has dune water injectshin to cool down charge in tubo so they can handle more boost so they dont get detantion .the rally cars yous them .thanks for your help.latter

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