2jz gte ecu?? Continuity across crank and ground?

[sharkys280]

I'm a bit stuck and not sure the best direction to move with my swap, hoping someone can help me figure out where my problem is. I've got a 2jz ge that im swapping into a 280z, im going the nat route with an aristo gte ecu. I reworked the wire harness and got the the point of startup, but it only cranks and doesn't fire. I wired a check engine light and got a "1..2.." code. So I checked the crank position plug and was getting continuity from the two terminals on the plug. Thought maybe I wired it wrong, so unplugged the ecu and checked the plug again, no continuity. Then I checked the ecu and was getting continuity with pin 4, 5, 6 and 7. 4 is a ground, 5,6 are cam position, and 7 is crank. 

So I thought maybe the capacitor that sits on those pins was bad, went to an electronics store that gave me a capacitor that "should" work, then had a place remove the old and put in the new.

After all that, Im still in the same place as I started. Crank, no fire, code "12".

Any thoughts as to a next step, other than another ecu (which i did but on ebay, waiting for it to show)?

 

Any help would be awesome!

[NewZed]

Barely know what you're working with but I did find a crankshaft position sensor online for the 2jz and see that it's a two wire unit.  That means it's a variable reluctor system.  There will be continuity across those two pins in the sensor harness to the sensor.  There should be a resistance of a few hundred ohms, typically.

 

It's not clear what you mean when you say you measured with the plug connected and got continuity.  Can't tell which side of the plug you're measuring, to the sensor or to the ECU.

 

Anyway, the signal to the ECU is generated when the metal teeth of the trigger wheel pass by the sensor.  The sensor has to be within a certain distance from the sensor, that's very important.  There's spec but it's usually a few thousandths.  Pretty close.

 

The basic testing is to measure resistance across the two pins to be sure the coil is intact and will work.  Then set the air gap.  Then test that a signal is being generated.

 

https://www.jdmgarageuk.com/90919-05037.html

 

Here's a pretty good video about the basics.

 

 

3 hours ago, sharkys280 said:

So I checked the crank position plug and was getting continuity from the two terminals on the plug. Thought maybe I wired it wrong, so unplugged the ecu and checked the plug again, no continuity.

.

Edited 9 hours ago by NewZed

[sharkys280]

Continuity was from the ecu to the plug that connects at the sensor, when the ecu was plugged into the harness. When the ecu was unplugged there was no continuity from the plug end at the ecu, to the plug end at the sensor. That led me to think the ecu was shorting to ground inside the ecu. I'll check out the video and test out the crank sensor, and its gap. I'm assuming their ok, as i am using a new crank gear, new crank sensor and new oil pump...but I know assuming is a dangerous game so I'll test it. 

Thanks for the link!