Corzette Posted April 18, 2002 Share Posted April 18, 2002 What a concept. When I installed my new floor pans I had to cut up about an extra inch to get all the rust out. I then made new ones from ZINC and welded them in. Well, the floor is about 1 inch or higher so I made the seat frames 1 inch lower and kept the same clearance inside. Well this allowed me to get the clearance I needed for the full length headers from MSA. I am one happy camper...no beating the floor pan. I think it also improved the joint angle as well... what does everyone think about that idea? Pros/Cons CoeZette Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted April 18, 2002 Share Posted April 18, 2002 Sounds like a cool idea! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Fast Frog Posted April 18, 2002 Share Posted April 18, 2002 Corzette: What was your cost and can you post some pics on our web site???!! Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted April 18, 2002 Share Posted April 18, 2002 Either have the collectors angled down or as you did, modify the floor. If you have the clearance, they're a great header. I just don't like how low the passenger side hangs. I have low pro tires and springs, the tubes under the starter, which are lower than the collector, would be about an 1 1/2" off the ground. JS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted April 19, 2002 Author Share Posted April 19, 2002 I will try to post when I get everything in... I have the floor pans pics ready soon but how do I post? Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted April 19, 2002 Author Share Posted April 19, 2002 As far as cost... I bought 2 sheets of Zinc galvanized metal and cut out the floor pans via cardboard template. Thet are 1 MM thick so it was a bitch to shape them. However a little heating with the torch help. I then jacked the pans up into position and adjusted the fit etc. I had to used a torch and steel rods to weld them. I welded everthing except the door rail side. I used tapping screws to secure this area. I will seal that space with rubber sealant later. I wasn't planning for this to happen but after comparing it with the original it comes out about 7/8 of an higher than stock. You have to lower the seat frame a bit unless your a short person to get the same clearance inside. The goos thing about ZINC is that it will never rust again!!! The water doesn't matter and I probably have the world's strongest floor pans now. I am sure it helps with the body strength too. The sheets cost s me about $20 per and the rods plus the O2 and Acetalene was about about $50. I should be done with this car around August or so....it fricken rains here alot so I have to wait for it to stop to really work on the car. I am gonna build an over head in May so I can work on the car at night and during the rain. I will keep in touch. TB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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