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apexi afc


bumble zee

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I just attempted to install one into my '77 280Z without any luck.

 

The problem is that I can't get the SAFC to read the RPM correctly (even using the 6 cylinder settings), so until I get that figured out I will have to put it on hold...

 

It may read the ZXT dist. better, though...I haven't gotten any clear answers on why it won't read the '77 280Z distributor signal, though...

 

I may need to invest in a tach adapter to clean up the signal...

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I never got that far, but I'm positive it will be able to read the AFM. There is a flap style AFM setting. One problem I found, though, is that you can't use the high/low throttle setting since the Z's TPS is only an on/off switch that switches at anything above idle...or at least that's how it is on my '77...

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Fill me in on what your engine setup is and maybe I can work you in as a tester. Which year of 280zxt ecu do you have, what size injectors, what size turbo, how much boost your running, intercooled?, do you have an air/fuel ratio guage, do you have access to a laptop computer?

 

Gimmie about 2 weeks or so, things are pretty hectic at work right now. I wish I could just dedicate my time to playing with cars some how.

 

Oh well, back to coding I go...

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have a 81zxt engine in my 76z.. running a 76z intake manifold, stock t3 turbo, volvo ic, on 10#'s of boost... i dont have access to a laptop... and im having probs with my car right now.. running fine sunday and then it just started leaning out... suspecting a faulty afm.. i'll find out tommarow

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Reading the resistance on the AFM doesn't seem to prove all too much, reading the actual voltage gives you a much better picture. Pop the plastic top off, turn the key into the on possision so that power is going to the AFM now read the power from the "tower", which is pin 32, and ground out the black wire on your multimeter on the chassis. It should read 5 volts. Now move the door open slowly while still reading the voltage, and the voltage should decrease to almost 0 volts when fully open. The voltage should never jump, or drop while moving the door. As for the temp sensor, I haven't gotten that far yet, just read what the haynes manual says on how to check it. Let me know what you find out. I can tell you for sure that the temp sensor on the MAF is a LOT more sensitive, and more accurate.

 

I just replaced my head temp sensor today, the one I had in there was making the car run a little more lean than it should have been, so the car is happier now. Would be worth checking that out as well. They are like $38 though, and a new bosch O2 sensor is always a great thing if you doubt the condition of yours, they are about $35.

 

Bill, I really want to, but I've got to have my orange car running well enough to get by as a daily driver so that I can sell my supra turbo to get the money to do things right on the 7m-gte. Lately I don't have time to do a lot of fabricating so looks like I'll be paying someone to do my intercooler hoses and exhaust system, as well as my drive line. I have this idea for a different intake manifold, one that looks more like the Z ones, and that would change my whole intercooler piping setup, so I'm not sure what I should do first. Making a new intake manifold would allow me to bolt on a larger throttle body, and have a cleaner engine compartment, and less intercooler piping, OH and it would keep the pipe that goes into the throttle body away from the hot turbo. How much money do you think I'd have to throw at this thing to get those jobs done? Maybe $500 for fab and metal + a throttle body + a BOV? There is a guy that welded up the 2 1/2" end pipes on my starion intercooler for the orange car that could probably do everything for me, so I'll have him check it out once I've got a thick pocket.

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Well, 10 pounds of boost is right on the edge of going lean with a stock setup. Sorry, I can't remember your setup, and your web page doesn't work. If you're not running an intercooler, then maybe you should turn it down a notch or two. Retarding the timing will help, but it will make the car more slugish off the line.

 

I had no problems running about 11psi without an intercooler, but I was running larger injectors, and my block config is different. Oh, I had a clean 2 1/2" down pipe, and a 65mm throttle body.

 

Like I stated earlier, check to see that your head temp sensor is working as it should, also replace the o2 sensor if it's been run for a long time. (Edit) Forgot to meantion you should check that your TPS works as well (/Edit)

 

Just picked up another Mercedes 450SL 65mm throttle body today, one of Scotty's friends has first dibs. They are a great upgrade. Oh, saw some volvo intercoolers out there today, could probably get them for $40, if you're interested.

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i am running a volvo intercooler.. 10psi.. swapped the ecu's out.. car run perfect.. then lik everytime i started it... it would get worse and worse...something is telling it something... retarded the timing today.. no help... im gonna go a little farther and see what it does... gonna replace the head temp sensor too tomarrow.

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