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Motor going back in for round two!!!!!!!


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

Hey guys, have not posted in quite a while but do visit and read a lot. Finally got my motor almost finished again to go back in. Back in July,went to track and made a couple passes after break in of my last motor to see what kinda time it would pull. well last pass something wasnt right noticed a drop off in power thu the traps. Lost that run,so loaded back on trailer and ideled up onto trailer and oil pressure went to zero :( anyways, got it all back apart,bearings trashed etc. Here is what i ended up with this go around. Tell me what you think and if im missing something else i might should look into doing. Thanks in advance for any input. 400 s/b 4 bolt mains new crank,Eagle rods 6.0 10:1 flat top pistons claimer type,cam 234-244 duration at.050 510 lift new lifters,timing chain etc. .30 overbore with torque plates used,stock 400 heads 76cc chambers-ported and polished,Crane Enigizer roller rockers,Sure Seat valve springs,studs and guide plates,hardened Comp Cams push rods,Performer RPM intake,750 carb,high volume oil pump,7 qt. pan. upgraded Hei dist. Hooker full length super comp headers 2 1/2 exhaust March underdrive pulley set Turbo 350 trans w/shift kit 3,54 rear end if someone cares to, throw an estimated h.p. at me ????? over 400 ?

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Guest Anonymous

Denny,actually i think i had a problem with the oil pump from the start. When i primed up the motor before initial startup used a primer with drill and there was excessive wobble in it,very strange. oil pressure was 60-65 lbs. at statrup during break in and would fall off to as low as 20 when engine got hot at idle. was a Summit high volume pump. no noises when i made my passes at track and car ran fine during breakin.changed oil 3-4 times no water or anything,but when i drained oil for tear down there was coolant in oil. one head gasket did fail

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its very common for the oil pump pickup to be mounted too close to the bottom of the oil pan or for the pickup to be loose and vibrate untill it either falls out of the pump or moves down untill its too close to the pan bottom, both things will cause the engine to starve for oil at much above 2000rpm. a third thing is for the stud holding the main cap/oil pump connection to loosen and cause bad oil pressure readings (use red locktite)its very UNcommon for an oil pump itself to fail but not useing a ARP hardened oil pump drive with a steel locking coller and a narrow mid section to clear the larger 400 main bearing dia. can also cause problems. this is the type drive shaft you need, Oil Pump Drive SBC all Steel w/ Metal Sleeve ELG 1S55E 6.99 Each SEARCH BY PART # AND ENTER PART # (ELG 1S55E )

http://www.parts123.com/PartFrame.asp?ZTM=cadefjgb&GHOME=www.mi dwestmotorsportsinc.com&TITLE=Midwest_Motorsport

and heres a good combo,MWMS Claimer Pan Combo

Includes: Claimer Pan (left hand only)

High Volume Oil Pump

High Volume Oil Pump Pick Up

$79.99

http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/mms.nsf/pages/Specials

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The locking collar would explain the "wobble" in the shaft while priming. Coolant from the failed head gasket also would not be good for the bearings.More experience for everyone to learn from.Too bad it was at your expense frown.gif The lesson here is that the oiling system in an engine could be compared to the body`s blood stream,running an engine with eratic oil pressure could be compared to jogging while having a heart attack eek2.gif eventually it`s gonna do serious damage. Good Luck this time around smile.gif

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