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Huston we have ignition!!


Guest jt240z

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I just fired up my Haltech E6K controlled 1972 2.8L Datsun Turbo 240Z for the first time!!!!!! cheers.gif It runs like crap, but it fired up and is now idling. We're all smiles here!!!! 2thumbs.gif On to the tuning phase.

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Guest Anonymous

Make sure that the "Disable Injector Outputs" is set to No in the fuel setup screen.

 

Are you seeing a steady RPM while cranking? Mine shows right at 180 rpms. The RPM resolution is about 60 so don't be concerned about a 120 to 180 jump.

 

What type of ignition trigger are you using?

 

Are you using a Distributor or Waste Spark coil setup?

 

Are you running Multipoint, Batch or Semi-Sequential fuel delivery?

 

What is your IGN/BY set for (3 maybe)

 

How do you know that your injectors are not firing?

 

Did you check your fuel pressure and prime the system by by-passing the Fuel Pump relay (ORANGE wires)? Let it run for a few minutes to get the air out and adjust your fuel pressure if you have an adjustable one.

 

Isn't programmable fuel injection FUN malebitchslap.gif

 

Don't worry, it's not as bad as it seems. 2thumbs.gif

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Originally posted by jt240zt:

Make sure that the "Disable Injector Outputs" is set to No in the fuel setup screen.

 

I'll have to check that

 

Are you seeing a steady RPM while cranking? Mine shows right at 180 rpms. The RPM resolution is about 60 so don't be concerned about a 120 to 180 jump.

 

yup, that checked out

 

What type of ignition trigger are you using?

 

Are you using a Distributor or Waste Spark coil setup?

 

I bought a Crane Cams optical trigger and gutted the old distributor...

Are you running Multipoint, Batch or Semi-Sequential fuel delivery?

 

What is your IGN/BY set for (3 maybe)

Have to check

 

How do you know that your injectors are not firing?

 

Pulled the distributor and turned it by hand

 

Did you check your fuel pressure and prime the system by by-passing the Fuel Pump relay (ORANGE wires)? Let it run for a few minutes to get the air out and adjust your fuel pressure if you have an adjustable one.

 

pump and fuel is fine....

Isn't programmable fuel injection FUN malebitchslap.gif

 

Haltech's instruction manual is far from helpful....at least for the E6 model....yours may have been better

 

Don't worry, it's not as bad as it seems. 2thumbs.gif [/qb]

 

I'm surprised that it actually worked that much the first time anyway :D

 

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Ya, you're right about the manual. bonk.gif I did get some help from the guys in Australia and the Yahoo discusion group. 2thumbs.gif

 

Let me know if you get the injectors to fire. I think that if you haven't change the disable injector option, that may be it. If not, I'll give you as much a hand as I can. I think I've got a handle on the system now.

 

We Haltech people need to stick together. ;)

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Guest JAMIE T

Hey guys, I think I'm going to use the H6K on my L28ET swap in my 240Z. I will be posting questions I'm sure ;) . I have read the manual and looked at the sample software downloaded from the internet. I got alittle bit of a feel for it, but we'll see. The system I'm looking to get is used(but not ever run) from a V8, so, I'll need to re-wire the harness. Does anyone have it running Direct Fire? Or, just with a distributer? I would like to go distributerless if it isn't too much trouble.

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Mine is runing direct fire in waste spark mode. I'm using the stock 82 Turbo distributor as my cam angle sensor. I'm running the ignition in "Nissan" trigger mode. I had to replace the trigger wheel in the distributor with one from a VG30 engine(84 to 89 300zx or Maxima) in order to get the #1 cylinder to be unique. Easy to find. Make sure you make the top side as top witha sharpe pen before you pull it. The wheel is reversable and will not work correctly the other way.

 

The ignition settings for me were:

Trigger Input=Hall Effect

Trigger edge=Rising

Trigger Angle=43

Trigger Type=Nissan

Spark Mode=Direct Fire

Engine Type=Piston

Output Type=Constant Charge

Coil Charge Time=5.0 (Could be less)

Output Edge=Falling

 

Home Input=Hall Effect

Home Edge=Rising

Nissan Home Window Teeth=9

Nissan Tooth Offset=1

 

I'm using the Buick V6 Coil pack (Accel aftermarket) mounted on a gutted DIS housing using the Haltech three channel dummy igniter as the drive unit. All ignition timing control is performed inside the Haltech using the ignition maps.

 

So far I have the engine idling and free revving quite well. I need to work on the cold start and load settings this week. I still have alot of tuning work, but I'll have a tuner from Australia coming to Atlanta on February 7th through the 9th in order to get me and some others squared away. I should have some dyno results after that.

 

I hope this helps and keep us informed on how it goes with you.

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Guest Anonymous

hello guys

i wanted to know if i could get any detailed information on how to set up the wiring on the e6k. Any help if possible would be great. I have had the computer for about a 2 years and never got around to wiring it up and i would like to be able to sodder it all inside then just go out and plug it in for the most part. once again thanks for any help

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Today I took the car out for it's first run under load. What a wicked sound when the turbo starts to spool up. You get a VERY distinctive turbo wine as the boost begins to build. So far I'm limiting the boost to very low numbers until I get to the dyno shop for some controled tuning efforts. She ran pretty good and you could feel the kick as it began to breath, but I noticed a couple issues.

 

First, was a TPS "fault" warning during cranking, but that may not be a problem. I've got the question up on the Haltech support group to see if this is a problem.

 

Second, As I was driving, I noticed that it ran OK for the most part and then as I was returning home, it started to falter. Stupid me, I then remembered that I only started with about 5 gallons of fuel before I ever started the engine and then I spent quite some time doing idle and no load tuning. Lots of throttle pump action for several hours. Well...sure enough, I was running out of gas. I was able to limp it home but it died in the drive way. The only gas I had at home was 100 octane unleaded race fuel. I put that in and it fixed the stalling problem and was able to get it in the garage. Then I noticed that my AFR's were off and lean. I re-tuned it to compensate and it took close to 10% change on all values to get everything back to normal. Is it normal for changes in fuel from 93 octane Amaco to 100 octane unleaded race to change the AFR requirements?

 

Just want to make sure. Can't wait till I get to the dyno shop to get things dialed in. Right now I'm just trying to get it tuned enough to drive it there. What fuel should I have in the car while tuning on the dyno? My goal is to limit my boost and get a good rich mix to break in the engine and then go back after about 1500 miles and do the upper boost settings. What do you guys think?

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Just a normal E6. Its more than a few years old :D

 

I noticed after what you posted that yours has a few settings mine doesn't have....

 

I still haven't had a change to check again, I have been trying to get things together for the new house....final inspection is tommorrow (Fri)....

 

But I need to try to get it going, I would like to drive it to the new house under its own power... ;)

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OK. Did a little working on the car on Friday night...

 

I now have spark and the injectors are firing... but not releasing any fuel. I tried a couple maps with no change.... Could if be possible that all 6 injectors are gummed up???....seems a little strange

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Guest Anonymous

Do you have fuel pressure? How are you sure? Do you hear the fuel pump relay turn on for 2 seconds when you first turn the key on? Do you hear the fuel pump running? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? How do you know the injectors are firing? Have you primed the fuel system?

 

I used a piece of wire and bypassed the fuel pump relay (short across the two heavy gauge orange wires on my system) to prime my system before I first fired it up. Let the pump run for a few seconds. You should hear fuel moving through the fuel rail and regulator. You should see pressure holding steady on the fuel pressure gauge.

 

This may sound stupid, but make sure you have enough fuel in the tank. When I first fired up my engine, I only had a couple of gallons of fuel. What I didn't take into account for was the volume of fuel required in the system. By the time I filled the fuel lines, Fuel filter, fuel rail and regulator, I didn't have enough fuel in the system to maintain pressure. bonk.gif My gauge needle was jumping up and down while priming the system. malebitchslap.gif

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Yup, got pressure..

 

The two second prime is working...

I took off the disributor and turned it by hand so I can hear the spark and the injectors firing... Looks like I'll have to pull the injectors and have a looksee.

 

Hell, since I'm taking them off I mightas well put on my new fuel rail. :rolleyes:

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Guest JAMIE T

Where did you guys get your systems from? How much did you pay? I've heard you can get a new E6K for $1175. Owen wants $1100 for his system off his SBC. If I got that system, I'd have to re-wire the harness for the L6. For only $75 more I could get a brand new system. What do you guys think?

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