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starter woes


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

Ok, I searched the archives under starter problems, and couldn't find anything. When I pulled my engine out the starter worked fine, and it's brand new, so it should still be fine. I have it ground out, and then the hot wire going straight to the battery, and then the little ign. wire going out as well. Well, when I turn the key all it does is click, click, click. If I bypass the key and go straight from bat, to the ign on the starter it throws the gear out and does start. Any ideas? Could it be that I cut a wrong wire? Oh and I have a 82zx with a 350 and the t56 incase this helps. Thanks guys.

sean

 

sometimes I wonder why can't i just leave well enough alone malebitchslap.gif

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Guest Anonymous

I think I have figured my problem. Instead of paying attention in class, today, I just daydreamed about my car, and I think that when I was removing stuff from my engine bay that I thought I didn't need, that I might have snipped an important wire. I'm gonna just wire a switch to the starter and see if that's the case. If it is, I"ll just put a button in a "secret" location so that way Only I'll know how to start my car. Sorta like my own alarm system:)

 

sean

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Sean, just noticed your thread. Please don't run full current to your starter via your dash. While you're changing wiring look up the ford solenoid bypass wiring setup. Essentially you ONLY have one wire going to your starter with power which is sourced from the ford fender/firewall mount (ie. not starter mounted) F*rd starter solenoid. The solenoid is $10 tops for a heavy duty one (ask for one for the largest Ford truck engine etc) and makes an excellent relay. You wire a HEAVY (ie. mine is direct batter cable) wire to the solenoid and then an ignition/start wire to the correct terminal on the solenoid to trigger power to your starter. Works great and acts as a fine distribution block to send power elsewhere without going thru your dash. As I recall the solenoid was pretty self explanatory with two small termainals being I & S for which one was 'start' and I for ignition and other two as main source and main outlet. Takes care of heat soak chevy starter issues as well (did for me, I put in a starter blanket initially and it didn't take care of it alone).

 

Good luck & glad you got your crank fixed.

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Guest Anonymous

not quite sure I understand. I already have one solenoid on the starter, correct? so I should put another one? If I do that, then I should run power from the battery to the soleniod, then from the solenoid to the starter? here is what I was planning on doing. Run big wire from batt to S on starter soleniod that is on the starter now. Then from the I go to a switch that goes into the dash and allows me to push another button to start the car, through the first switch, and the circuit is dead, so no accidental pushing while driving.

 

I don't even know why I'm having this problem. I guess one of the wires I cut to clean up the engine, had a direct relation to the starting system.

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Originally posted by Ross C:

Sean, yup you've got the drift of it. Here's some more info:

 

old hybridz thread

 

wiring diagram (keeper)

tt4b.gif

With this setup you don't have to worry about what wire you cut.....just find an ignition live and starter live source and MAIN power and enjoy:)

 

Hope that helps.

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Pull oof your lower steering shroud and one of the wires should only be hot when turned to the crank postion. I believe it is blue or pink in color, I don't have my scematic in front of me. E-mail me with the yaer of your car and I will look it up and tell you exactly which one. Any way a test light should tell you. If none of them light only in the crank poss. check for a burnt fuseable link or you may have a bad ignition switch. Rick

 

V8ZRACER260Z@netscape.net

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Guest Anonymous

where are some other starter live's? I know where all the others are, but I have no idea where any starter lives are, besides the one wire I had running to it before, and it doesn't get any juice what so ever.

 

sean

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