Slide hammer not working

[Z-TARD]

Went to the junkyard today, fully prepared to pull stub axles (or so I thought). I was under the impression that a few good tugs would be enough to pop the stubs and rear bearings out. I used a scratch built pulling adapter cosisting of a 6" flange with 4 slots for studs and a 3/8" stainless u-bend in the center for placing a pry bar into, and for attaching a slide hammer. The axle nuts actually came off very easily by wedging a breaker bar and socket on them, and using the pry bar through the adapter to gain enough leverage to break them free. I didnt even have to grind out the staked in portion of the nuts. After sliding off the companion flange I connected the slide hammer and began hammering the living piss out of them, to no avail. Is there some other trick I'm missing here? I'm sure I was using enough force, because I broke the chain that connects the hammer to the pulling adapter Any help would be appreciated.

[evildky]

how heavy of a slide hammer you using ? I would suggest a 13lb, I got mine out with a 5 lb drilling hammer from the back side

[Z-TARD]

It was a 13 lb hammer, almost felt like there was still a nut on the backside of the axle though, didnt budge at all. I might try hitting the backside of the axle with a hammer next, I'll just put the nut back on by a few threads so I dont damage the axle.

[Guest 240hybrid]

Is the diff. still in the car your trying to pull them from?? If so, heres kinda what I did to get the stubs I wanted out of the car. I used a coalition of slam puller and a 4 ton Porta-jack, you could probable use a house jack or a body/frame straightening jack kit also. I placed the Porta-jack inbetween the stub axle and the differential, so that there was pressure pushing out on the stub axles, along with 2x4's to absorb/spread out the force. It only took about a minute of slam pulling with the assistance of the porta-jack pushing out. This method isnt listed in any service manuals , but it worked very well and save alot of time and back pain...just make sure not to tear up you threads like you said. Just to show how much force is required to remove a stub axle thats been in place for 25 years, we ended up blowing the seal out of the 4 ton Porta-jack near the end of the second removal. I hope this gives you some other options on how to remove them, and good luck

Chase

[Dp351zcar]

I was visiting the in laws in salt lake when I finely found a 83zxt to pull the CV half shafts out of. I went out there to pull the halfshafts and found I could have everything except the diff for the price. I had no way to pull the stub axles so my father inlaw goes to his truck and pulls out a lead hammer, with it we could pound on the threads without messing them up. What you could try is backing the nut off until the shaft is about 1/4" from being all the way through and pound on that. You will have to buy new nuts but it should work if you have swinging room. I would also replace the bearings.

 

Don

[Z-TARD]

Thanks for the tip about the porta jack. I hadnt thought of that one yet. My next thought was to use some sort of low yield nuclear device in a shaped charge configuration to "blow" the rear axle out..... I think Pick-A-Part Salvage Yard would be really grateful if I try the porta jack method instead.

[Guest 240hybrid]

good luck with it......taking a buddy to operate the porta-jack while you slam pull is good to emitt both forces simultaneously. It should take more time to set up the slam puller and get the portajack positioned than to get them out.