ToplessZ Posted February 16, 2003 Share Posted February 16, 2003 Ok I found this while searching around on ebay http://home.att.net/~brer/products.html I searched the net and found this site. I have emailed several customers from their ebay sales and they have been very happy with the results and quality of thier paint. At this price it would be possible to paint your car for 100 bucks including paint clear hardner and some misc supplies. What is your opinion on this. Also would it be ok to use a different brand of hardner that can be had for 12 bucks instead of 22 Just want this to beat a maco job and last 2 or 3 years and Ill be happy to repaint with a more expensive paint later down the road. Let me know what you guys think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest greimann Posted February 17, 2003 Share Posted February 17, 2003 I have no experience with that paint, but if it were me, I would think twice before using it. First, I believe in the paint world, the phrase "you get what you pay for" is true. It is not going to have as high performance chemistry as a main stream brand like PPG Delstar or Concept. And because if this, eventually repainting the car, I would hesitate to put anything over top of it. Just some food for thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToplessZ Posted February 17, 2003 Author Share Posted February 17, 2003 thanks for your input so far guys. I was curious how this would compare to say the paint maco squirts down on your car? If this is something that is going to be that quality or better I just want this to keep the rust off and keep my daily driver decent looking. But Im trying to consider everyoption. 400 dollars is the next cheapest option I have found for my paint supplies to do this job. Any suggestions. And also thanks for actually taking the time to look at the above website before hastily answering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest greimann Posted February 17, 2003 Share Posted February 17, 2003 If you a re looking for another source for paint material, check out this link: http://autobodydepot.net/scripts/depot.exe?pgm=depotgate.bbx I just bought 1 gal of PPG Delstar, reducer and DXR80 for under $200. Delivered by UPS and in California no less where this stuff is unobtainium! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToplessZ Posted February 17, 2003 Author Share Posted February 17, 2003 Well that price sounds great but that link isnt to good puts me in the worlds largerst index of auto body suppliers or something Im kinda lost. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Georgia Flash Posted February 17, 2003 Share Posted February 17, 2003 Hey Jared go with the DP90LF epoxy primer by PPG. It was recomended to me by Racer X about 6 months ago or so. It is a black satin finish primer that looks pretty good by itself. I have even thought of leaving the car wrapped in this primer for a time while I save up enough money to get a professional job done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToplessZ Posted February 17, 2003 Author Share Posted February 17, 2003 hey charlie, how does that primer work. Does it all have to be scuffed before you can paint it later? Is it a high build primer. Sounds like a lead. lemme know. Also RacerX or anyone else are all epoxy primers good to leave sit for several months to a year without having to worry about rust if not putting on a topcoat. I went to the auto store and a guy there was raving about their epoxy primer that they had supposedly made by ppg and he said he has used it and it is great stuff and it is only about 50 bucks for the primer and reducer or hardner whatever goes with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Georgia Flash Posted February 17, 2003 Share Posted February 17, 2003 If I can remember correctly Racer X told be to put at least 2-3 coats of the DP90LF on the car then do the body work as in fillers then the high build primer. I have not done much to the car as in the body work lately but as soon as it gets a little warmer here in gool ole GA I plan to start back. However, I must admit that I have put the body work on the back burner for now in an effort to get the car running by the end of August 2003. Racer X will be the expert to talk to about this primer, also you may be able to do a search on this and find those old threads from last summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peej410 Posted March 3, 2003 Share Posted March 3, 2003 in my opinion if your going to go to all the trouble of painting your car, take your time and do the best job you can, unless its going to be a track car and your going to have other peoples tire marks on your car, save your pennies get the good stuff take your time , heck even buy some sheet metal and practice on it do a dozen layers or so. ill bepainting my Z eventually and this is the approach i plan on using, good luck to you -pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPMS Posted March 4, 2003 Share Posted March 4, 2003 I've got a second point of view here, one which may not be appreciated by the other members of this board! If you just want something to make the body shiny and one color, go ahead and shoot it with some of that cheap paint. It probably won't last long, but it will probably last long enough for you to save up some money for a GOOD paint job. Heck, if you plan on stripping the paint anyway later, go ahead and shoot the cheap paint now. Just don't invest a bunch of time and energy getting the body perfect if you're going to re-do it later. Think of this as a practice paint job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peej410 Posted March 4, 2003 Share Posted March 4, 2003 good suggestion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZR8ED Posted March 5, 2003 Share Posted March 5, 2003 I totally agree with the phrase "you get what you pay for".. and this is especially true with body/paint work. I would not discount acrylic enamels. If you want a solid colour. It is exactly what they say in the above posts. It is a harder finish so its also more brittle. BUT it is also much easier to spray for a beginer. Many of the multi stage paints require lots of knowhow to apply it correctly. APPLICATION TECHNIQUE IS EVERYTHING. I know... Enamels do take longer to cure yes.. but they are much easier for the average joe to spray, then wet sand any imperfections. And unless you are great at doing multiply layers of clear. (most oem cars have 1-2 coats of clear on them approx 2-3mils thick.) enamels will look "wetter" or "deeper" and have more snap to them than an oem finish. I'm in no way saying it is superior, but you can get away with murder with the stuff, and is excellent for novices. When I had my 280 painted back in 1991 and in 2002, I used acrylic enamels both times. My current colour is 99A black.... It looks very wet, and I haven't even started to polish the car. (I too have let it bake in the summer, and have been very careful to let the paint fully cure.) Everyone thinks it has clear on it to make it look soo wet... though it does have 4 thin coats of enamel on it...(no clear) Your budget and the look of the finished product that you can live with are the ultimate deciding factors. Each paint has its place. take your pic.. the 100.00 special, or the 8500.00 ultimate paint job... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest riggerjack Posted April 9, 2003 Share Posted April 9, 2003 racerx, let me make sure i got this straight: step 1: strip paint (chemically) step 2: cutout rusty sections. weld in replacements. step 3: primer, primer, primer. step 4: use filler, attach fiberglass step 5: sand, sand, sand step 6: see step 5 step 7: wipe down and paint step 8: enjoy a beer, and weep at the sight of the beauty before me. is this about right? what kind of time are we talking about here? 40 hrs, 80 hrs? a lifetime? i'm scared to get started because the last thing i need is a project i need to take a vacation to get away from. as always all input is appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest riggerjack Posted April 10, 2003 Share Posted April 10, 2003 thanks for the break-down racerx! i have a couple more questions. instead of stripping the paint, could i block sand what i have (orange peel) prime and paint that or will stripping really be neccessary? i was hoping to rip out most of the weatherstrip pull the doors, emblems, bumpers and lights, cut back the seal around the windshield and rear hatch glass. then block sand, prime, and paint, reassemble, and be done the same month i start. is there a product line that will fit this plan? i started reading here and everyone seems to think the way to go is frame off restoration. going into that kind of depth scares me, i don't want to run out of ambition while the car is in pieces. i don't have garage facilities. i have a costco garage that i was going to pressurize with a filtered box fan. here in the seattle area the weather restricts good painting weather to 2 or 3 months a year. if i'm gonna do this i need to make my decisions soon. thanks again for the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted April 10, 2003 Share Posted April 10, 2003 If you really want a decent, long lasting finish, I would highly recommend taking the body down to steel. My car had at least 4 layers of paint on it. It has taken me a very very long time, but I took it to steel with a DA sander and found several spots of rust starting. Very small spots (size of say....this , and areas of linear lines of rust that kinda look like a scratch). If I didn't get rid of these, they would have effected the final finish eventually. The roof was the most difficult/time consuming part. I have my car in primer now and it's starting to look like a car again!! You'll find the effort up front, worth it in the long run. I'm sure RacerX will agree that prep work is 95% of a good paint job. The color spray is just a way to show off your prep work!!! BTW, if your bodywork isn't perfect, I'd suggest painting the car white. It's amazing how much white will hide lazy bodywork. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 10, 2003 Share Posted April 10, 2003 From the "What it is Worth Department"... I too would recommend taking the existing paint off to bare metal. I am doing this to my 77 now. I am so glad that I decided to do this. I have discovered all sorts of weird crazing surface rust. It somehow got down below the lowest level of paint, which looked like the original primer coat. I have been using Aircraft Stripper. Very cool stuff. No other chemical works as well. Also from the WIIW department... I discovered at Home Depot for $7.96 a bottle, a product called "The Must For Rust". It is pure Phosphoric Acid. It dissolves rust nicely! It also will leave a film of Phosphate on the surface, which will inhibit rust for what the label says "Up to 12 Months". This, I may or may not believe, but I will not test it as a theory anyway. I have been soaking heavy white paper towels (also sold at the Home Depot) in the Must for Rust, and lay the towel on the car for up to 1/2 hour. I use a squeege to remove the air pockets as I lay the towel on the car. The stuff is amazing. A little work with a scotchbrite pad and the rust is gone. Do not breathe the stuff in. Wear rubber gloves! The car looks so good in bare metal! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest riggerjack Posted April 11, 2003 Share Posted April 11, 2003 racer x, thanks for the support. thanks to the rest too. my paint is only ugly because it has horrible orange peel. i have one quarter sized ding. the panel under the rear hatch is rusty, other than that the car appears rust free. i made the mistake of buying a 73 rust bucket, i'm not going to make the same mistake twice! the reason i bought this car was because it was so close to rust free, a rare thing in seattle. if i had the shop space, i would build a rotisserie, stip it down to nothing and giggle watching my babe spinning naked in the garage . get your minds outta the gutters!. i don't have those kinds of facilities yet, so i'm trying to make do. i have yet to negotiate with my earth first neighbors to see if painting is even going to be viable. now, if this does work, what paint line should i be looking at? i'm asking here because i distrust salespeople as a source of objective information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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