Guest Anonymous Posted March 6, 2003 Share Posted March 6, 2003 FYI Haltech announced this week that they will be dropping the US office and all support will be through Haltech Aus. This may sound bad on the surface, but believe me the support will be much better. They currently support over 40 countries from Australia now. The US office has never been good from a support standpoint. I blew my RS232 input while connecting my ECU under power to the lap top. Stupid!! :malebitchslap: I asked Haltech USA about it and they said "Too bad, we are just so back logged that you'll have to stand in line". No expected turn around time, no warrenty because the unit was bought in Australia. I just received an email from Australia that they expect no more then a 2 week turn around door to door to have it fixed and under warrenty. Shipping costs will be about $20. Along the same lines, they have now dropped the price of their products in the US because they no longer need to maintain a useless office here. All prices are in AUD (Australian Dollars) so the costs will rise and fall depending on the US to AUD exchange rate. Right now it's 1.623 AUD for each US Dollar. The Haltech E6K flying lead kit is listed as $1530.00 AUD that makes it $942.00 USD. With shipping that's still under a grand. The E11 is listed as $2400.00 AUD. That puts it in at $1478.00 USD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted March 7, 2003 Share Posted March 7, 2003 Yeah, those people at Haltech USA really suck big time. They were like "...duh???....". I've worked with Hatech AU via email and phone and they were a great help. For me also, turn around time for a busted unit was like 2 weeks. My E6K is still for sale, nudge nudge. Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan280zt Posted March 8, 2003 Share Posted March 8, 2003 Jt hey man i was just wondering if you would be able to help me out with something. i just got my e6k today and i should have it all hooked up by the end of next week (i can work only hour or two every night) and i was wondering if there is anyway that you can help me with getting it started. what i mean is i am gonna need base program just to get car to crank up. i know that our setups are probablly very different but i just need to get it to idle (i just want to make sure that everything is working before i take it to local tuner). i would appriciate any help. btw i am located in mobile Al. Ivan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jt240z Posted March 10, 2003 Share Posted March 10, 2003 The people that sold you the Haltech, should be able to supply you with a startup map. I started with one that I got from Haltech Australia. I e-mailed them with what I had and they sent me a map that would get me started. With that said, I still needed to make some changes to get things triggered correctly. Give me as much information as you can about things like: What engine are you runing? 280zxt I hope. What type of trigger are you using? 280ZX distributor with CAS, Hall effect Crank trigger or reluctor? What type of ignition are you using? Waste spark or distributor? What size injectors? Stock or how many CC's? What impedance injectors? What ohms? How are they wired up? Multipoint or Semi-sequential? Which injector drive circuits are they wired to. How many and what channels are you using? Are you using the haltech supplied sensors? What MAP sensor? 1,2 or 3 BAR? and anything else you can think of. I should be able to modify my MAP in order to get you started, but unless you're running the same injector size (550cc) it wont run well at all. You need to get your hands on a wide band O2 analyzer if you can. That's the best way to get close. Without this, your just guessing and playing a very dangerous game. If you plan on driving it to the tuner, try to make sure you run no boost to be on the safe side. You can lock the waste gate open. The hardest part of getting it started is getting the trigger working and the timing set. Start by making sure that the injectors are turned off in the software and just crank the engine. You should see a stable like 160RPM +-40. That would mean that you're getting a good trigger. Then it's a matter of making sure the spark is at the right time. After that it's just getting the right fuel for the given load and RPM. Sound easy right? :malebitchslap: NOTTTTTT! Make sure you ZIP up any MAPS that you e-mail out. Some ISPs will mess them up. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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