Guest Anonymous Posted March 21, 2003 Share Posted March 21, 2003 I've got a question on which rearend I should get for my 73 240. I have a 400 horse 350 that is getting transplanted this month and was curious on what the most bullet proof rearend that everyone is using. I want one of those 4 link weld in jobs but alas I've run out of that kind of green. Also what size drive shaft should I use. i am using a th 350 tranny with a 3500stall torque. Thanks for any knowlage as I know it is out there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted March 21, 2003 Share Posted March 21, 2003 Welcome to Hybrid Joe. Grab yourself an R200 out of a junk yard 280Z. It will handle 400 ponies just fine. Forget about that spendy and complicated four link. You will only ruin your Z's great handling. Do a search in the driveline forum on the R200. You will have plenty to read about, get you up to speed. R200's are commonly available in 3.54, 3.70, and 3.90. On the drive shaft, get your motor in the place you want it first them measure and have it shortened. Think about an overdrive tranny. If this is a driver you will be much more comfortable at highway speeds with that extra gear. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 21, 2003 Share Posted March 21, 2003 Joe; Dan would be right in some cases (Because in his pic he looks bigger than me).....LOL, but, the drift of your chat seems to indicate you might treat the car rough. I recommend that you look ahead in time as to what you may be doing to the horsepower later and do according to that projection. You got things open now? Want to spend about two grand (equipment and material included) on a proper job with the rear by doing it yourself or even more to have another do it for you? Then do it now. Why wait, you old moneybags you! Standard fare is: 9" ford with the big axles and taper roller bearings. Get new axles cuz' (assuming you use a trick lockup differential) if one breaks on you under heavy accelleration you'll be into the wall, or bystanders and there isn't anything you'll be able to do about it. (Things happen). Joe, there is no magic about knowing any of this stuff. We all had to dig in and read and chat and think like crazy before we could decide which way to go in each case that came up. You know the final decision is yours, so load up on the info in each case and then go for it out of your own mind. Guidelines is all you will get from others because every build is different and aimed at the particular owners desires. With that said I say, you do well to ask in here because this is a great website and yet, you still have to seperate the wheat from the chaff, even in here. Common sense will get you there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted March 21, 2003 Share Posted March 21, 2003 LOTS of guys have 400 HP with an R200. Going solid axle is overkill IMO and, not to be a purist, takes away from one of the biggest benefits of a Z: a cheap, good handling rear IRS. If you were looking at 700 HP then a solid axle would be a whole nother issue. On the driveshaft, get a GM driveshaft and have it shortened. The JTR book tells you what yoke will work with the R200. One guy strongly recommended an aluminum shaft. Claims it really cuts down on driveline vibration. The other item you might want to research is replacing the U joint half shafts with a CV conversion. If you are near stock ride height, them the U joints are fine. But if you have lowered your car by a couple of inches or more, the CV's might be a more bullet proof upgrade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted March 21, 2003 Share Posted March 21, 2003 other options http://www.turbobuicks.com/members/scottiegnz/vette-irs-swap.htm http://www.suspension.com/Must-IRS.htm (you can buy one used from a wreck MUCH CHEAPER) http://www.jcna.com/library/tech/tech0009.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted March 21, 2003 Share Posted March 21, 2003 Too many folks, unknowingly, underestimate the strength of the R200 setup. The main problems with the R200 is the lack of availabiity of a LSD and the u-joints in the halfshafts. The CV conversion addresses the axle problem and money or luck addresses the LSD. Grumpy, thanks for considering my setup a worthy option although it is not one I recommend for the mechanically or greenback-challenged. Only reason why I am not running a modded R200 or better yet, a R230 is the sheer cost to satisfy my needs: LSD, 3.0:1 R&P and custom axles. $400-500 for a used LSD, big $$$ for a NISMO 3.06 R&P, couple of hundred to swap it with new bearings and $500-$700 for custom HD CVs. I ended up going with custom-made 3" steel axles and the pair cost the same or less than what 1 custom CV would have cost me. Ironically I am running a DANA36 which has a 8" ring gear, same as the R200!! Now, having heaped praise on the virtus of the R200, I would say if someone is starting from scratch with a really strong motor for drag racing with sticky tires, then would probably need a R200, LSD, different gearing, CV adaptor with companion flange, CVs, shocks and springs. Cost that out and you will see (especially if everything has to be farmed out) it is worth looking at alternatives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lee Smith Posted March 22, 2003 Share Posted March 22, 2003 84 R200 3.7 gearing. $50 + shipping. 75 R200 3.5 gearing. $50 + shipping. E me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 29, 2003 Share Posted March 29, 2003 scottie. i have a 350 ,700r4,r-200 w/quaffe diff. turning mid 11's , 1.6's 60' and starting to break u-joints. ross recommends the z-31 c/v's with his adapter. i was wondering how much hp the shafts are good for? who makes custom shafts and about how much are they? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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