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Plumbing return line - Turbo 240Z


Mudge

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I need to do the return line today, and am going to use the drain plug on the bottom of the 240 tank. Does anyone know the fitting size, so I can try to dig something up?

 

Parts store closes in 4 hours, if nobody knows (tried searching, can't find specs) I'll hopefully figure it out.

 

I am using the stock 240 tank for now, yes.

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you need to get a 75 or 76 tank.the efi tanks have baffles around the fuel pickups to control fuel in tank during cornering.carbs dont need this since fuel is stored in carb bowls.my car will cut out on turn 3 at thill with less than 1/4tnk.the efi tanks also have a large(11mm) out put hose nipple.

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Randy, I know, but I can't have a 75 tank by tonight.

 

Brad, the stock N42 went yesterday, you and I both took a loss on our deals, I dont know what the future holds head wise, right now I am just concerned with getting the car running and reliable. Wiring SUCKS, I have what seems like 30 pounds of wiring if not more, I had to cut one relay box to get it out of the firewall so I have about 40 wires to solder.

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You can use the drain hole as a feed, and the stock 5/16 feed barb as a return. You will get some cavitation if you let the fuel level get below 1/4 tank.

 

Mudge, are you putting a L28ET in your 240Z? If so, there are far less than 40 wires to hook up. I wired up a freinds car, and there were less than 10 wires. Yes, you have to hook up a couple relays, but it wasn't that bad. Are you trying to wire up more than you need to? All you really need is the main engine harness.

 

Pete

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Z please educate me :D

 

Here is where I am at, ripped the harness appart, trimmed some BS stuff that wasn't needed, and I discovered that the engine harness with FI clips etc is detatched from the rest of the harness? It is very small now, plugs into computer, couple sensors, and injectors thats it about.

 

The rest of the harness which goes to some relay boxes, do I need that? That is on the pass side of the 280ZXT (off the car of course), that is what I'm wondering, ok how does this get power and/or splice into other side of the harness. I tracked down what I did and see that I didn't cut it, and dont believe I detatched it but... not sure.

 

Either way "all" the wiring is either in a trash or keep pile so I still have everything.

 

The L28ET is already physically in (in my gallery), driveline is hooked up. I will use the drain as the feed good idea, very bottom of the tank, I have 3/8" line for that ready to roll.

 

Until I can fix the tank issue I will make sure to fill up every 2 days or so, I'll never see below 1/2 tank.

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Guest livewire23

mudge, you want me to grab my 280, the chilton's manual, and my wiring kit and head out there? I'm sure we could figure out what's really necessary. I dunno what's needed to keep the turbo happy, but the car will run just fine with about 10 wires connected total. i think you need injector relays, injectors, AFM, fuel pump relays, and a couple other things im forgetting. even the temp sensors and stuff like that isnt really necessary, unless you want to actually put down power and not just black smoke. :wink: Just be careful not to blow the engine up while the sensors are disconnected.

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The issue is, MOST of the relays and fuse box are on the passenger side of things. I will do what I can today but I do hope to finish it, once someone can post how to do the relay thing then I think I should be "home free." That cuts off a good chunk of time I think from my ETA on the project, just because there is abour 3x the amount of wiring on the pass side, huge pile.

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From what I remeber, you need the injector harness, and the harness that connects to the ECU (big connector). Then you need to find the resistor pack. These three things should plug together in some way. You definitely need the schematic for the engine wiring to connect the fuel pump and ECU relays up. Unless you can figure out a way to use the stock relay center. When I did my buddies car, we also re-used the fused link box. It just made things a little easier.

 

Best resource you could have is a factory service manual for a 280ZXt. This will not only give you the schematics, but it will show you how to test all the sensors.

 

If you have any specific questions regarding the wiring, let me know, and I'll look at my service manual to see if I can figure it out. I would suggest getting your own schematic for sure.

 

Hope all this helps,

 

Pete

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I've got a schematic, but other than a dropping resistor shows no fuse box. There is labeling for ground connections, EFI relay (I have the bright green one on the same harness as the FI connections), and shows 2 connectors going to the "main harness."

 

Then is listed a "control unit" which I believe is part of the good chunk I took out, which has a brown/blue/green/clear set of connectors that I removed. Big flat clipping station basically with room for one or two more in the pass footwell that were not hooked up, so it mostly looked like it was wiring to the rear of the car.

 

I am guessing at this point I need to track down these "to main harness" clips and see where they go to, there are two of them along with one 2-wire "to fusible link."

 

The ECU/injector stuff is all on the same grouping of wires.

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Got alot done, but routing that oil cooler is a real sunnava beach, mostly due to the bent tubing that it has and the obviously different installation method vs the 280ZXT car.

 

For anyone doing the swap, run your fuel lines when the driveshaft is down out of the way ;)

 

Didn't even touch the wiring, partly wanted to wait till last to let my mind work on the issues at hand, and try to absorb what everyone has said, yada yada. Got most of the grunt work out of the way, 1-2 more days and I think I'll be done, but then again who knows. :)

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On my buddies car, he punched two holes just above the frame rail on the passenger side for the oil cooler lines, he then mounted the cooler inside the fender well, in fron of the duct in his air dam. came out nice, and is functional.

 

Pete

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