Guest ebay240z Posted April 15, 2003 Share Posted April 15, 2003 Okay my $250 ebay 72 240z is about to cost me a lot more. My initial check of the frame rails looked ok so I started tackling the rust on the passenger rear quarter.....I got curious and took a closer look at the frame rails and to my absolute horror the passenger side frame rail is actually torn clear in half under the passenger side floorboard near the firewall. The front suspension is just kind of flopping around. I know there have been numerous messages on rusty frame rails, but I was hoping I could save a little time scouring the archives. I am looking for plans, drawings, web sites anything to help me decide whether or not to try and replace the frame rails, or drop back and punt. I had planned to put in a small block chevy and 5 speed so beefier frame rails would definately be nice, but also tons of work...any advice is appreciated. Thanx! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted April 15, 2003 Share Posted April 15, 2003 If it were me I'd punt. Better to spend $2500 on good car to begain with IMHO. The guy to ask is Pete P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Zachb55 Posted April 15, 2003 Share Posted April 15, 2003 i agree with Dan, i only spent $1200 on my car and numerous things on it were not liveable for me so i couldnt imagine a what a $200 car would need for repairs, not only structural but body wise and interior and parts and everything. i think you should punt as far as you can, and maybe get back your initial investment, then save up and get something that you think you can handle. i came into this game with no real hands on experience but i think im coming out of this phase (of repairs and body work) ahead. so start yourself off a little easier and it will make the road ahead a LOT easier. -Zach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-tom Posted April 15, 2003 Share Posted April 15, 2003 I have a frame rail that I bought to put in my 71 but I decided it was 2 far gone to save. I would sell it for 75.00 (+shipping) I paid 150.00 for it. It is an exact replica of the factory unit. email me @ t-tom@lycos.com if you are interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mas28O Posted April 15, 2003 Share Posted April 15, 2003 I just replaced my bad frame rails on my 72 240z, and at the same time I ran them all the way back. I also had to fix some holes in the floor. It looked real bad before I started but it only took 2 days and the car is alot stronger than stock now. I can now jack the car by the frame rails without bending them. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagz Posted April 15, 2003 Share Posted April 15, 2003 If you have the dollars, Dan is right. You will be much better off starting out with a car in better condition. Having said that, have you checked out the rest of the most common rust areas really, really well? Is the damage to the frame rails caused by physical damage or rust (or both)? It's possible you can salvage the car depending on the condition of the rest of the car and how hard you want to work. More than likely, you will find more rust. Only you can make the call, but if you decide to keep it, plan on doing a lot of work. And cutting. And welding. And fabricating... and on, and on. I purchased a '78 280 for $500 that appeared to be in good condition that turned out to be a rust riddled basked case. I dumped it and bought a '71 240 for 3 times the price. The 240 still required a lot of work to get rid of the cancer. (I also found more rust on that car than met the eye). If you're going to go through the trouble of replacing the frame rails, take a look at Pete Paraska's site and consider fabricating subframe connectors based on his plans. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 16, 2003 Share Posted April 16, 2003 I think you were smart to buy a parts car (Good price too). I will assume the car is rust shot and suggest your experience be used to get another good deal without the rust (or at least only a liveable amount). However, like the guys say, if you're handy with the fabrication etc. and have the necessary equipment on hand to do the job (and the time), go for it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ebay240z Posted April 16, 2003 Share Posted April 16, 2003 Here is what I am thinking now....but will probably change my mind a few dozen times. I have a baby on the way so I don't want to shell out any money right now for a new car. I think I will try and replace the front frame rails and add subframe connectors while I am at it. If I screw it up I am only out a little money since I only paid $250 for the car. As far as the rest of the car goes, it is very straight with no bondo and good windows. It has the usual z-rust on the rear doglegs and rockers and a small rust hole in the passenger fender. It did have quite a bit of rust around the fuel filler door (which I have already patched). The rest of the car seems reasonably solid. I had planned for the car to be an autocrosser, so I did not plan on having much interior. thanx for the input Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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