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Need fast Advice!!


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Hey guys, I am trying to get my fuel tank back in the car today and I need to know something fast. I will not be using the return line on my Z so I was wondering is there a way to seal off the return line nipple coming out of the tank (75 280Z).

 

I do not want to weld it because I would probably blow me the garage and the house to kingdom come! I thought about JB weld or even cutting a small piece of rubber fuel line and clamping a 5/16 bolt into the rubber tube.

 

Any ideas?

 

Oh yeah, I do not care if this thread gets moved to the fuel section later but we all know that if you want your post to be seen by all, this is the place to post it. And I need a quick answer to this delima.

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I too blocked off the return line. First, I tried a nipple on the end, held in place with a hose-clamp. Material of nipple became brittle, allowed weep of fuel when filled up. Next, tried bending the end 180 deg, so as to pinch it, clamped tight with vice-grips. Couldn't get it to pinch tight enough to stop all fuel flow, still weeped. Attempt to put a second 180 bend into it dislodged the solder joint holding the fitting in place, came out in my hand. Removed the fuel sending unit assembly (only a couple of inches away), noted that there is a sleeve on the inside into which the short length of tube fits. My option: a pair of fuel-resistant grommets, a matching pair of washers to back them, a 1 1/2" #10 screw, and a lock-nut. Use a tubing cutter to cut off the return-line fitting as close to the tank as possible. Smooth the cut so that the end will not damage the grommet. Onto the screw place a washer, then a grommet, gingerly feed the screw into the sleeve inside the tank through the sending-unit hole (which is just big enough for a couple of fingers,) and then out through the tube. There will need to be at least 3/4" of thread visible, you may have to use a longer screw. Then place another grommet on the outside so that it seals the now cut-off tube, back it with another washer, and start the nut. Hold the screw gently with a pair of vice-grips in front of the nut while initially tightening the lock-nut (which will take a surprising amount of torque), change the vice-grip position to behind the nut when thread is available. Snug it so that it does not damage the grommet, yet still seals.

 

Not elegant, but works well. At some later date, I intend to seal off the opening more permanently, but this is a fairly secure semi-short term solution. Good luck.

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I've never had luck with JB Weld and fuel tanks!!

Crimp it and then put some "Seal-It" on the crimp. You can find it at Home Depot. It is especially formulated for sealing gas tanks, "Jerry" Cans radiators etc. VERY good stuff!! If you want to weld on the tank and worried about fuel vapors, drain the tank, and seal all but 2 of the openings, then hook it up to the tail pipe of another can and run the car for 10-15 minutes. Then weld away.

Tim

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Thanks guys. I decided to use a short piece of fuel hose for now with a smooth piece of round metal that has a flat head on it pushed down inside the pipe. I placed a clamp on it to hold it in place.

 

It will be a little while before I put any fuel inside the tank so I will not know if it will leak or not. The Carter fuel pump that I ordered looks right at home using the old Datsun fuel pump mount turned on its side. I will upload pics to my yahoo web site in a few to show the mount with the Carter pump on it.

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Tim,

What happened to the JB Weld, did it not cure correctly for you? What was your use for the JB Weld? Let us know. I figured it would be just fine, but now you got me thinking that maybe the fuel fumes aren't letting the stuff cure or something. I've never had a problem with JB Weld so far.

 

!M!

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Matt,

I cracked the weld on the breather pipe coming out of the top of the tank on the driver's side. I tried JB since it was the only thing I had. Left it overnight, then filled the tank the next day. The fuel destroyed the JB and it leaked. I tried several things until I found the Seal-It, or maybe it's called Seal-ALL, can't remember. I was very sceptical because it looks just like plastic model cement....clear and runny. Once it cured though, it was hard as rock!!! It's been 2 years now and no problems at all. I would not bother with anything else if I need to seal a tank in the future..This stuff ROCKS!!!!

 

Tim

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Some other good stuff to use is called Sonic-Weld, I bought it at NAPA. It's a steel reinforced epoxy putty. Great stuff!! It sets steel hard in 15 minutes.

 

But is it resistant to fuels and solvents? The JB weld worked great until it came into contact with fuel(which I guess invalidates the statement "it worked great"). The great thing about the "Seal-All" (that is the name of it, I found the tube over the weekend) is the very low viscosity which allows it to 'flow' into the little cracks and crevaces. Even better, it's really cheap at Home Depot (about $2.50 for a 6 inch tube).

Tim

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Some other good stuff to use is called Sonic-Weld' date=' I bought it at NAPA. It's a steel reinforced epoxy putty. Great stuff!! It sets steel hard in 15 minutes.[/quote']

 

But is it resistant to fuels and solvents? The JB weld worked great until it came into contact with fuel(which I guess invalidates the statement "it worked great"). The great thing about the "Seal-All" (that is the name of it, I found the tube over the weekend) is the very low viscosity which allows it to 'flow' into the little cracks and crevaces. Even better, it's really cheap at Home Depot (about $2.50 for a 6 inch tube).

Tim

 

Yes it resists fuel and solvants! It also "works on radiators, batteries, manifolds, AC lines, engine blocks.It bonds aggressively to most surfaces, including, metal, plastic, fiberglass, ceramic, glass, wood, etc. After 1 hour it can be drilled, tapped, machined, filed, sanded and painted." This stuff is a putty , you cut off what you need and role it in your hand untill it is one color, then mold it on. I had a leak around the soldered panel on my tank, and used this stuff, and it has not leaked since.

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Yes it resists fuel and solvants! It also "works on radiators' date=' batteries, manifolds, AC lines, engine blocks.It bonds aggressively to most surfaces, including, metal, plastic, fiberglass, ceramic, glass, wood, etc. After 1 hour it can be drilled, tapped, machined, filed, sanded and painted." This stuff is a putty , you cut off what you need and role it in your hand untill it is one color, then mold it on. I had a leak around the soldered panel on my tank, and used this stuff, and it has not leaked since.[/quote']

 

:2thumbs:

 

Tim

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