Does Anyone here have a comlete LS1 (with ECU) for sale?

[Guest tt350]

If ya do, hit me up please.

 

I have decided that this engine is probably the lightest and most economical way to build a TT 240z for road racing.

 

Thanks yall!

[Guest tt350]

Oh, and I would also like it with the T56.

[Dan Juday]

Take a trip up to Stockton and see Kennedy Auto Wreckers. They are at the end of Clark Rd. Ask for Beau or Gary. They have quality low mileage motors and offer a swappers special. Got my tpi motor from there and was very happy.

[Mudge]

TT350 are you going to convert to an iron block?

[Guest tt350]

Actually mudge, in my initial plan, I had the iron block Dart 350 in mind. I now want to convert to aluminum, because:

 

1. It is lighter (duh)

2. I cant possibly reach more than 700 hp with a aluminum, so I porbably wont have to reinforce the body the way that you guys suggested (tube frame chassis, cuttin out the bottom and put in a ladder set-up), maybe later, when im more experienced with car building. Right now, Ill stick with a 8 point.

3. The LS1 engine already has turbo systems designed for it, so I can easily set up mine.

 

ummm, thats all for now.

 

Looks like I wont be hittin 1000 anytime soon

 

What do you think mudge?

[80LS1T]

I cant possibly reach more than 700 hp with a aluminum, so I porbably wont have to reinforce the body the way that you guys suggested (tube frame chassis, cuttin out the bottom and put in a ladder set-up),

 

If you build a 700HP MONSTER! You will deffinetely need some serious support in the chassi if you want to be able to open and close your doors! LOL At the very minimum I would put in a 8 point or 10 point cage AND subframeconnects along with some triagulated strut braces!

 

Now this idea of yours seems very do-able! 8)

 

 

Guy

[Mudge]

I will bring up the first gen Fbody again it will NOT handle big power without building up the chassis, much less an 800 pounds lighter Japanese car that only had 130 HP stock!!!

 

Subframe connectors and a fat cage, and tie them together and I think you may do ok. Beyond having the cage go through the firewall I would also consider motor plates at that point, but that may be overkill - you are going to have to do something with that cross member, easier to fab it yourself IMO because I seriously doubt a stout 700HP is going to last on a peice of tin foil like that.

 

I will tell you without a doubt, the metal on my 69 Firebird was ALOT thicker guage than what is on my 73 240Z (the beefiest of the 240s), you barely touch the 240 body and it will give way where you had to punch the Firebird to get it to dent, and then the dent was stuck there, oops. Those particular cars will break at the rear window near the trunk, around the door area, crack city. Plus with age setting in, its already working against you much less being merely an old school MIATA!

 

I could believe that an aluminum block would stand 700HP though, the C5R is around there buuuuut it is a better block, price tag is some sticker shock though. With the iron block it would be easier to go for the big number (cubes!) and have pretty gauranteed reliability at least as far as the block twisting itself to death goes. As far as old SBC Motown block etc vs an LS1 setup, they both can make the power, but I have to admit to liking factory EFI stuff from GM lately, I only have an LT1 so I'm limited to 7k RPM, although hey there is always Megasquirt. As far as the computers themselves though you will get good BSFC if you know your tuning, and make power across the band a bit better than a carbed car (unless you are a carb wizard, bah). So I myself like the idea of an LS1, if you are going to stick with 700HP at the crank then the block may take it, I've seen them semi cheap at http://www.corvetteforum.com but I'd consider an iron block, just a thought, I dont know how much its going to twist and distort under power to the point where you have to throw your block away after x number of races, so ask around on that one.

[Z-Dreamer]

If a aluminum block is what your after? Then you want what I'm building, a all-aluminum Rodeck motor! The blocks new are about $5K but they weigh 100lbs. less than a iron block. This is the same block the "Outlaw Sprint car" guys run and they are making over 800HP! Slap on a great set of aluminum heads and your real lite in weight. These blocks can withstand over 1200HP with the right parts! I'm lowering my compression ratio to 10:1 so I can run pump gas. but I should still be able to easly get 600HP with the Brodix heads I've got.

 

Mark

[Mudge]

There is also the remake of the ZL1 aluminum big block, its about 5k bare, may not be as good as an aftermarket though I dunno.

[Z-Dreamer]

Sprintcar racing is big in Northern California and if you search the local tracks and/or talk with those involved, you can find a used Sprintcar motor for pennies on the dollar! I did!

 

Mark

[Guest Anonymous]

Have you tried Ebay? there are usually half a dozen or so complete ls1's with either t56 or 4L80E. They usually go for around 3 to 3.5K