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This is getting mythological


jeromio

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So, I've been wiring up gauges since Friday.

 

All done. Was getting ready for the big test drive. After allllll this time.

 

But, the damn thing won't start. Can't believe it. It has started every time I've tried since the very first time. But now that I'm ready to drive it - it's dead. Crank, crank, crank. No fire. Poured over all the wires and finally gave up for the day.

 

Ugh.

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I tell you, more people have mentioned that - including my 8 year old son. And really, I don't mind. I have overlooked the obvious on prior occasions.

 

I ought to get a fuel pressure gauge, just for good measure. I've been checking by loosening the cap on the rail - fuel sprays out vigorously.

 

I try to always follow the A.S.S. rule: It's Always Something Simple. But I've totally exhausted all the simple possiblities - over and over in fact.

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Jeremy,

Have you tried un-doing what you did with the gauge wiring? Get it back to how it was when it was running, then do things one at a time until you find the problem.

If you have fuel, spark and compression........ :roll:

Tim

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Yep. Even tried stuff like connecting the PCM 12v leads directly to a separate battery (someone on LS1tech suggested that the PCM required at least 12V and that the drop during cranking, in my case down to 11V waould cause a no start).

 

I have tried so much stuff. The PCM seems to be "turning off" during cranking, if that makes any sense. The only real clue that I have is that the diagnostic cable (Autotap) disconnects (has a red "on"/"connected" LED) during cranking. But all the grounds are good, connector 12v is good during cranking, and all the 12v leads to PCM have power during cranking.

 

This is such an annoying mystery.

 

I have fuel pressure, I have spark. I haven't been able to check injector cycling. But like I said, it appears the PCM is not running when the key gets turned. I verified that the autotap should stay lit during start by connecting it to my other car.

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Hit with the big A.S.S. once again. You wanna know what the problem was?

 

Spark plugs were fouled.

 

So, it started before I put th enew gauges in with these crapped out plugs. Damned-est thing.

 

Still have some problems. It runs rough once it warms up and is easy to kill.

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sounds like the PCM thinks the engine is still cold once it's warmed up. Maybe the temp sensor? Or maybe one or more of the injectors are stuck. Are all of your header tubes the same temp? Try tapping on the injectors with a small wrench (13mm is the correct size :D ) to free them up. My LT1 did that, but I think due to the engine sitting for so long.

Tim

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I have Autotap. I need to get EFILive. But, I also need to stay married (spent alotta dough on the car this past month). I was getting a MAP high (0108) when it wasn't starting. Got it once more when it did start. I cleared that. I also got a knock sensor code, cleared it. I get CAGS repeatedly, which is odd since that was supposedly deleted. But, on the last 8-10 starts I've gotten no codes. MAP and TPS definitely work since I can see real time data.

 

Will the O2s look clogged if they are? Mine appear fine. I do have them up closer than stock - I had to weld in bungs that are pretty much right at the collectors.

 

I went and filled the tank with premium - it is driveable. I just have to baby it and nurse the throttle when it's stopped.

 

This car is freaking crazy fast by the way. Really scary fast. And LOUD. Needs a resonator in the tunnel. It's really really loud.

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Yeah, that requires software upgrade. I have just the generic autotap.

 

I think bullets may have to get bitten. I also need to buy a damn floor jack - that's an extra $150 or so I hadn't planned on. I need to put it up on stands and go over all the bolts, etc. before I really drive it.

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Guest tt350
Hit with the big A.S.S. once again. You wanna know what the problem was?

 

Spark plugs were fouled.

 

 

Your a funny guy :-D

 

I always end up gettin hit with the big A.S.S, BTW.

 

Next time you see it, dodge it. :?

 

 

 

I have a carbd l24 right now, and the dam wiring is driving me crazy, so props to you man with the EFI

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Yeah' date=' that requires software upgrade. I have just the generic autotap.

 

I think bullets may have to get bitten. I also need to buy a damn floor jack - that's an extra $150 or so I hadn't planned on. I need to put it up on stands and go over all the bolts, etc. before I [i']really[/i] drive it.

 

04172.gif

 

$53.99 at harbor freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=4172

 

 

 

 

38846.gif

 

$18 per pair at HF; http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=38846

 

Tim

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I gots plenty o' stands - just need to replace my broken jack.

 

I'm looking at getting this one:

144470_lg.jpg

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=375706&storeId=6970&catalogId=4006970&storeId=6970&langId=-1&cmemid=EFP090501p01c01

 

I'm tired of the 2 step jacking procedure. This one has a nice low 3 1/2 inch height.[/img]

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