Guest Anonymous Posted May 3, 2003 Share Posted May 3, 2003 I have a 73 240z with an L28/E88. I just rebuilt the motor. I used a electornic ignition systen from a 280zx. The control module is an E12-80. The wiring harness on the car (the one that runs through the radiator support on the driver side) has 6 wires in it. One of them is solid green, it is long enough to reach back to the master cylinder and it is switched power. I have no idea what it is for. One of them is the temperature sending wire. There are two black wires, one with a white stripe and one with a yellow stripe, they are both switched power. There is another green wire with a white stripe, it has power when the switch is turned to start. The last one is solid black, and it never has power and is never grounded. I hooked up the control module to the coil, C to negative, and B to positive. The car starts and runs great. But when I turn the key off it won't shut off. I tried several different combinations of wires but none of them let the car shut off. When the key is in the off posistion no power is supplied to the coil. Except after the car has been started and I turn the key to the off posistion somehow power is supplied to those wires. I have to pull the wire off of the coil to shut the car off. If anybody has any ideas I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted May 3, 2003 Share Posted May 3, 2003 This has come up before. Do a search (I hate saying that but I know this exact problem with a solution has been discussed in depth in the past). I think it has something to do with the alternator charging circuit feeding back keeping the ignition energized. I seem to remember the fix being something as simple as installing a diode in the alternator circuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted May 3, 2003 Share Posted May 3, 2003 Ditto, in re-wiring my car I read that the alternator needs to get a signal to shut off power. This may be the same "stimulated" pulse that tells the ALT to start generating too, dunno. I know this kind of problem has been dealt with on ZCar.com also, so a search should turn up something there. This usually happens to people who upgrade the alt after having had the external regulator before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted May 6, 2003 Share Posted May 6, 2003 I searched and only found one other post on zcar.com. It said the same thing about a previous post somewhere else about a diode inline that I should be able to find with a search. So I changed my alternator to an older style, and now it is working great. Thanks for steering me in the right direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave240Z Posted May 6, 2003 Share Posted May 6, 2003 The answer you are looking for is here: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/280Alt.html With all the added electronics of the ZX engine, it would be best to run the later and higher output ZX alternator with your setup. The stock 240Z alternator only puts out 37.5Amps, whereas the 280ZX unit puts out 60Amps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted May 6, 2003 Share Posted May 6, 2003 I must have missed something. If your running FI definately get a better alternator, injectors suck juice, + computer etc that will need reliable power input. Many of todays injected cars run over 100A alternators. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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