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What about Fuel Injection!


Guest Anonymous

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What gear ratio do you have? and is your thottle body stock?

 

99.9% sure its a 3.545 rear end.... unless it was changed before I bought the car... The throttle body is(was) stock.

 

I made the mistake of putting the stock clutch back in the car. Hard 1-2 and 2-3 shifts pretty much killed the clutch in about a week. I meant, to at least put the 2+2 version of the clutch in the car, but I was in a hurry to get the car going. My mistake :( but I have new T-5 that is going in the car next, so I'll change the clutch then.

 

That 6.27 sec mark may be off by a fraction but not much, I still had the 14" wheels on it when that figure was generated and it was pretty consistant for a while. That figure came from a Cyberdyne digital speedometer that I installed that will calculate the 0-60 as soon as the car starts moving. (kinda hard to cheat :D )

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Dr. Inferno, back to your question...there are a few things you can do to deal with your situation, i.e., high compression engine with EFI:

First off, the N42 is an EFI head so you're set there. Newer cars often run 11:1 c.r. but they do it with engine management computer systems that control more parameters than the earlier ECUs, and the cyl head designs, variable cam timing, and multi-valve heads all contribute.

 

So, if you can pull an entire management system of a modern 6-cyl (doesn't matter if it's I6 or V6) with compatible injector impedence & cc flow then you could set up a crank trigger and might be able to go that route.

 

A stand-alone programmable system, although expensive, would be the best solution.

 

With proper tuning and a knock sensor in the circuit you might get by without lowering the c.r. using the above solutions.

 

If funds don't allow and you've got to go with the stock EFI/ECU there are a few tricks that can help performance and protect the engine from detonation. A rising rate fuel pressure regulator will leave the idle mixture alone but increase fuel pressure/flow/richness at higher rpm based on demand (this vs larger injectors which flood it out at idle). EFI mixture is tied to engine temp. Get rid of the 195 degree OEM thermostat and use a 180. Don't run a 160 with the aluminum head, 180 is better. Given that mixture is tied to the water temp/cyl head temp signal (same thermistors, different locations), and lower engine temps are shown as higher thermistor values (cold engines get richer mixtures), you can select a resistance value and add that resistor in line with the sensor so that you richen the mixture. This richens across the board so don't get carried away but you know you're going to need to be richer overall once you increase compression. Another trick, to approach methodically or suffer the consequences, is to adjust the spring tension slightly on the AFM door. Higher airflow/engine speed gets richer mixture than when the door is just ajar. So if you make the ECU think the door is open due to a higher flow than is actually occurring, you get some enhanced enrichenning.

 

These budget measures are a compromise but the'll be a world better than trying to leave a stock system stock with higher compression. If you find you need to enrichen a lot across the board, you might try swapping in L28ET injectors right at the start. In fact, I've wondered about modifying an entire L28ET system (crank angle, knock sensor) for use with a high compression na setup but haven't explored it.

 

Finally, an HKS 2mm head gasket may be the easiest way to lower your c.r. but they're about a hundred bucks. DAW

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  • 1 month later...
Guest Anonymous

 

 

Is this your website? Man, there is TONS of good stuff there, and the

set up is EXACTLY what I was thinking...WOO HOO!!! Whomever made

this website has just made my life easier.

 

for those "well versed" in the Z, how does this sound:

 

240Z

L28ET

Electric Ignition

280Z 5-speed

 

Thoughts???

G.

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