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removing a transverse link pivot bolt


Guest livewire23

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Guest livewire23

that's what the caption says on page 180 of the chilton's manual, fig. 11.30. Now how come it doesn't work that way on my car? He's just pulling it off, whereas mine won't budge. :weird: is there something i forgot? I removed the bolts on both ends, and also the lock bolt in the middle. although i think on mine I had a lock nut, not a bolt, and now there's still a stud sticking out there. :twak:

 

 

mudge, I know you got the strut/hub assembly off, how'd you do it?

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you still have to remove that stud. what it is, is a wedge with a threaded end on it. to remove it just put the nut back on a couple of threads and then tap the nut with a hammer and the wedge should pop out the other side. the transverse links are the absolute worst things to work on on the z's. if there is even a minute amount of rust on them they can be the hardest things to get out. right now mine are in the shop getting pressed out by my mechanic. i couldn't even budge them by pounding on them with a 3 lb hammer. now i'm not saying that all of them are that hard but i've heard everything from them just sliding out to needing a 20 ton press. the good thing is that Victoria British still sell them for about $30 apiece. they also sell the wedge pieces for about $15.

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Remember we talked about this one before LoL, some guy on the board was using massive force with an air tool trying to get it out, I think he was talking some 700+ pounds?

 

I didn't even TRY, I just dropped it off the car to do my work.

 

Oh, it comes off easily. You will see that there are Xmembers holding that stuff in place, I just loosened them up and pulled them out at the bushing. There are two bushings on the end of that transverse link obviously, and each one is held in by a member of sorts. I used a 1/2" on one and maybe a 9/16" not sure, so figure 12/13mm or something like that to start with.

 

I still have your 17mm socket!

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Guest livewire23

oh, yea. So you dropped the entire transverse link? See, I can't do that because the jack stand is suppored from the transverse link mount. Is the whole transverse link bolt thing one piece? Because if it is I dont understand how I could get it out with that stud sticking out of it in the middle. If I need to I can run over to work and buy an air chisel. I just want to make sure I haven't forgotten anything before I fork over the cash.

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Guest livewire23

wait, there's cross members holding the transverse link pivot bolt on? We're talking about the same pivot bolt right? the one near the strut, not the one near the diff.

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No its not holding the bolt in, its holding the transverse link in place. I heard the horror stories, and after a few good whacks gave up on the idea of getting that bolt out, so I dropped the whole thing. I was doing my brakes and had to go to work the next day and all so I just did it the only way I saw that I could actually get it done.

 

So the strut, transverse link, and drum crap all comes out as one peice (this way). You also have to unbolt 4 bolts (12mm or so) to detach each respective half shaft.

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Guest livewire23

I managed to miss J260z's post right at the top. That's what's wrong, the wedge is still in there. thanks.

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Guest livewire23

whoa, looks like im gonna need an air impact hammer. Has anyone ever tried to find a complete strut assembly or transverse link from another car and put that in? Because I really don't like this transverse link right now. :evil:

 

maybe one with replaceable struts, so it would be easier to go coilover? And disk brakes too? Maybe I should look at doing the corvette IRS.

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take solace in the fact that once you do get them out all you have to do is coat the new ones with anti-sieze compound and you should be able to remove them with your fingers for the next twenty years...(just like the manual shows) :D

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Guest livewire23

Im not going to touch the rest of them if I can avoid it. :? someday, maybe. I'm gonna get a kick out of actually doing something like its shown in the picture for once. They must have soaked that entire car in anti-sieze before the photo shoot.

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  • 1 month later...
Guest franklinz

im going to have to give this topic a bump. im also having problems removing the lock "bolt".

 

how exactly can you get it out, which way to i have to tap it out??

thanks,

franklin

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Guest franklinz
the threaded end is the one you have to tap. just put the nut on about 2 turns then give it a light whack with a hammer and it should pop out the other side. really quite easy.

the other side of the stud doesnt have a hole, and thats the only thing keeping me from pounding out the pivot bolt.

in the books they call it the "lock bolt" and they dont go into very much detail about how to remove it.

franklin

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here are some pics

album_pic.php?pic_id=1116

this pic shows the lock bolt out and you can see the hole it came from

album_pic.php?pic_id=1117

this pic shows the lock bolt partially out. the threaded part is on the bottom.

all i can say is you are lucky i have all my parts categorized and handy and that my wife is a photographer. these pictures were taken just for you with a $9000 camera. :-D

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Guest franklinz

wow! the back side of the stud damn near looked like part of the link!! thanks alot for the pictures, me and my dad were going crazy on how to get the things out.

thanks,

franklin

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