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LS1 / T56 Update #17


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Maichor,
Great to see the progress you're making on the Vella Rossa. That is going to be one sweet machine when you get it done. Big time Kudos to your wife for hanging in there with you on it!

Cyrus,
Well, redline is 6,200 which would give me 124. Maybe an occaisional 6,500 won't scatter things all over the landscape?
Anyway, this car is being put together as a daily driver so my only reason to take it to the track is to just get an idea of what it can really do. Same rational as putting it on a dyno and truck scale - but a lot more fun. This car will probably never see more than a half dozen runs down a track. Besides - I dont want to be Too Fast, Too Furious. he he.

Edited by Phantom
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I guess that means you have LS1Edit? Otherwise, the PCM cuts fuel at 5800rpm.

 

From my few days of driving my car with the 4.11, I can tell you that 6th will be useless with anything lower (numerically) than a 3.7. My lowest practical speed in 6th is 60. I've gone 55, but it's really strange, and difficult to accelerate out of. On the other hand, 1st is still surprisingly usable. I didn't expect that. Yeah, it's pretty easy to boil the tires, but more and more I think I'lll just keep the 4.11 - at least for now. LSD would certainly be nice.

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Here in Cali we drive 71mph. 3.36 in 6th would work fine. 3.07 maybe. But I am dreaming of a 3.54 posi with 275/40/17 slicks, the lightest flywheel, and a LS6. I want the front wheels off the ground and high 120's in the quarter!!!!! What happened to gear calculator on this site that was awesome!

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Guest Anonymous

Hello Phantom

 

The last model 'A' roadster hot rod I built was a big bore stroker. It had a curb weight of 2,123 lbs and 200 ponies (ya, it was a flathead). I had 9" slicks and stock 3.78 rear end. The power/weight ratio was 10.6:1. I liked to race motorcycles and wasn't dissappointed. Oh Boy! That was real good times! Low gear was rediculous, I tried it the first time I left the house and within a block I knew I would never use it again. With second just a small slip and I was gone, man 0 man! It was 70 in second in one block and about 117 in high at 5200 with an Iskenderian '404' constant accelleration cam (the latest at that time) and it never stopped pulling.

 

Now I got '70 Z @ 2,355 curb weight and building a BBC big bore stroker with 700 ponies (ya, I move engine back six inches for balance). The power to weight ratio with this one will be 3.36:1 (I get chills just thinking about it)!

 

This is why I got the Richmond 4+1 trans. With such engine performance; To get the overall gearing anywhere near right I have to go 2:73 rearend. So the pattern runs 3.27(useless)-2.13 (useless but good in town)-1.57(my smoke 'em gear)-1.23 and 1.1:1 top. The 1.1 is an underdrive 5th gear for this trans. and puts it closer to 4th. like I want.

 

So actually for drag I am getting a three speed, but all in close ratio during the shifts and in top gear it still keeps the rpm's right in the strongest part of the power band! I searched high and low for a good close ratio trans. and almost settled on the Jerico but this one is a tad better used as I mentioned.

All standard tyanny's have a wide seperation between their last two gears and it just makes me sick when I hear those engines bog down in top gear. Mine won't do that! Why not use a lower numbered rearend and the close ratio 1st-2nd etc.? You find the ring and oinion and do that if you can.

 

GEARS/SPEED USED FOR RACING

 

2nd=89 @ 6000

3RD=121 @ 6000

4TH=154 @ 6000

 

This is for street mind you, I'll let the strip have it's way with me there. But for the highway I still have that very close top gear that could give me a sure.....

 

5th=172 @ 6000.

 

Notice that between 2nd, 3rd and 4th there is about a 30 mph seperation, but look at the top gear, 33% closer @ 20 mph! What this means is that these expensive cars like Viper and Corvette etc. are going to come along sooner or later and when they do, I won't let them down.....LOL. My cam is good for 6500 rpm. even though that last 500 rpm will be gained more slowly it could (quickly as possible) take me to.....

 

5th=186.82 @ 6500. (But that's just too much for me).

 

The whole thing is that the faster you go above about 70, the tougher it is to go faster because the wind resistance starts increasing by the square! Extend the drag race out to a half mile at such speeds and you can imagine the resistance encountered, (thus the close ratio high gear, it's to maintain accelleration). A good detroit sports car can get 185 I suppose but not as quick you see. So we break out ahead about 3-4-5 car lengths and can hold it through the half mile. By the end of a half mile of this I don't think any concerned

are going to want to keep going, lack of room is one good reason, and even if the other car could do 200, at such speed it would take them another mile or so to catch up and slowly pass you! But the bet was for a half mile.....LOL! And Mike Tyson is holding the money! Ouch!!! I just love it! And for the rest of you guys, I will have mercy and mostly shift at 5250 to keep my piston speed happy.

 

But on a more sober note: I am talking big power and big torque with which you can enter into the realm I mention. But you guys with a lesser builds can get the best out of your mount by following the guidelines given because they do work with any setup! Just figure on using 4 "close" gears instead of three and keep those rpm's in the right place is all.

 

Cyrus..... You need to get Right! Go to church! Start over one more time!.....LOL.

 

Phantom.....I was raised in Texas (Dallas, San Antone and Wichita Falls), Thank's for the space!

 

See you all there! Candy: http://www.prestage.com/carmath/

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Guest Anonymous

Phantom;

 

Air force (yardbird) '46-'49 is all I got to show there. I am retired 18 years now. Just taking my last shot at wild stuff with the hot rod. I think I have bitten off more than I really want to chew but I will plod along and maby finish what I have in mind before going to sleep for the last time.

 

The way I got the engine figured for example costs over $5000.000 just for the "short block" and I don't have that kind of money anymore. So, with time on my side, I'll just have to wait it out and do a little at a time. Maby I will go with a used stock short block and get all the other full house goodies and bolt them on. Then I can get on the road while I continue to get the fast guts and that custom block I want and do the engine stand thing there, then just swap it in, if I live long enough.....LOL.

 

I've got to do the whole frame, tubbing, pinching, 4 point bars, custom driveshaft, custom ford rear end and some sort of internal bracing for that big engine. It aint' going to be no picnic! Then there's the rest of it all.....Oh Brother!

 

I guess you can tell that my posts are written somewhat

as if I was already built, just give me some space, I'll get it done.

 

Later.....

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Start over huh...

I think I could do the LS6 in a weekend. The viper rear will be a project though. Now Spiirit what quater mile times are you shooting for? I want to be able to beat an Ameritech McLaren. They run 11.3@125.3.

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I think if I was building an LS6 for the quarter mile I'd get one with the 4L60E like Lone Star 1 has, modify the stall ocnverter, flare the back fenders to allow for some 300 series tires, and just put it down. Sounds like you're going to a lot of extra work - unless, of course, you just want to. That, I understand.

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Guest Anonymous

Ok Cyrus;

 

Well Cyrus a BBC Dart Big M (Gen. II) bores out to 4.625 or so (3/8th's in.) andcan be stroked to 4.750 (3/8th's in.). I did this 3/8x3/8 drill with a lesser engine and it was a bomb in it's day. Today, these street rodders are not messing around either so I will do the same as before. But this time the power available is not only scary but also very dangerous (if you get my drift). Do the math and you get 638 cui. @ what I expect to yield 1.2 hp/cui. max. with 8.5:1 Dynamic Compression on Preium Pump gas; If well built this is not impossible. Do math again and you get 766 brake HP with 651 HP at the rear wheels.

 

Now, this is the best I would ever do and at a cost of 8-10 grand just for the engine, it will take me some time to get it together. I am thinking to run an old stock BBC until that time.

 

My attitude twoard the street (with a rod) is to build as big as you can , get it out there and just be cool. I just drive around minding my own business, visiting here and there. Sooner or later someone will ask me "Is that a race car"? And I will reply "It runs", then slyly add "but I don't know any place around here"! Heh.....They do! And off we go for fun! If I get itchy, I will seek out a bike or two sometimes.

 

My attitude twoard the strip is pretty foreign. It's just too cut and dried for me somehow; But I will pay a visit to get a time slip once. By calculation with a program I have determined that 651 RWH in a 2700 lb car (me included), should give me an estimated 9.35 in the 1/4 mile @ 145.71. I might even do a little better because of the M/T 29x18.50 wrinkle walls on the rear.

 

I build strictly for accelleration so I'm set up for the strip but run a saturday night street special strictly as a fun car.

 

Oh, by the way, the wrinkle walls are for the motorcycles and I have them in my bedroom right now!

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