utvolman99 Posted April 11, 2002 Share Posted April 11, 2002 I have a friend who is wanting to sell all of his chevy stuff for $1300. Here is what he has - 3 four bolt main blocks. Two are fresh bored 30 and 40 over aline honed with ARP studs. One has a chip out of the bottom of a sleve and would need to be sleved. - One 2 bolt long block - Scat steel crankshaft (need polish only) - Eagle 6" H beam forged rods with floating pins (new in box) - Set of standard, ballanced X beam rods (used) - Weisco flat top forged pistons for 6" rods with floating pins. (out of engine that was only fired once for cam break in) - Mallory magnetic dist (used one season of circle track) - Set of fresh build double hump heads (35 laps run time) - mini starter (not sure of the name brand) - Holley Strip dominator intake I guess, I would be selling some of this stuff and using the crank, rods, pistons, dist, starter and one of the blocks. I dont want to take the deal unless I can get a big chunk of my money back. I am also not sure how these internals would work for my street car? I already have a perfect two bolt block with a perfect crank and a set of Iron eagle heads. Thanks for your help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted April 11, 2002 Share Posted April 11, 2002 $1300 is alot of money for some parts you don,t really need, what you do need is to have a list of parts that your engine build needs to have all the parts work well together......then for you to get all the parts on the list! make that list up and check off the parts as you get them! the NUMBER ONE MOST COMMON MISTAKE EVERYONE NEW TO THIS HOBBY SEEMS TO MAKE is BUYING DEALS that don,t match the other parts or rpm range that they need for all the parts to work together correctly! what you have iron eagle heads.. CHECK block..............CHECK CRANKSHAFT..........CHECK forged pistons......??? 6" forged rods......?? edelbrock #2975 intake??? cam...................??? 7 qt 7" deep oilpan ...?? HEADERS................?? high volume oil pump...?? good CLOYES ROLLER CHAIN..?? ARP 2 BOLT MAIN STUD KITthat fits a windage screen ..?? MILODON WINDAGE SCREEN...?? GET THE IDEA!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utvolman99 Posted April 11, 2002 Author Share Posted April 11, 2002 You know, your right. I dont really think I want to get into the part selling business. I would of loved to use the rods, pistions and crank but I already have pretty good internals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted April 12, 2002 Share Posted April 12, 2002 "I would of loved to use the rods, pistions and crank " HERES AN IDEA........JUST BUY THE rods, pistons and crank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utvolman99 Posted April 12, 2002 Author Share Posted April 12, 2002 He will not split them up! I would have to buy the whole lot. I think Ill pass... I need to stick with my original idea. I will reuse the stock crank and rods. The rods are strange... I am certain that the rods are original but I dont seem to have a matched set! It would seem that I have seven X rods and one pink rod?? I suppose they could of ran out of X rods when they were putting the engine together?? Oh well, I will be having the whole thing ballanced anyway... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted April 12, 2002 Share Posted April 12, 2002 look here, useing a mixed set of stock chevy rods is nuts on a high performance engine,look at at least these(EAG SIR5700BB 5.7 $219.00 ) http://www.racepartsstore.com/connecti.html Eagle SIR Rods Forged from 5140 steel, the SIR rod is 50% stronger than G.M."Pink" rods. Comes with ARP 190,000 bolts and are bushed for full floating pins. Comes in balanced sets. Part # Rod Length Price Per Set EAG SIR5700BB 5.7 $219.00 EAG SIR6000BB 6.0 $219.00 http://www.racepartsstore.com/trwfm.html http://www.racepartsstore.com/oilpans.html http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1819028674&r=0&t=0 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1820359382&r=0&t=0 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1820067713&r=0&t=0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utvolman99 Posted April 12, 2002 Author Share Posted April 12, 2002 This may be a dumb question but if I use a rod with floating pins dont I need a pistion that is also set up for floating pins? Can I have that done to a non floating pin piston? Is it very expensive? Like I said it probably was another dumb question! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted April 12, 2002 Share Posted April 12, 2002 normally you can have the pistons you have now cut to fit snap ring retainers for the floating piston pins (not the best IDEA) forged pistons already set up to take floating pins (which can be much lighter in weight, extending your rpm range) will be lighter,stronger,can be matched EXACTLY to your blocks deck height and in the long run will be cheaper than getting both the block and old pistons machined to get the correct quench distance in most cases Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utvolman99 Posted April 12, 2002 Author Share Posted April 12, 2002 Well okay as usual your right. I did end up buying the eagle rods off of ebay for $215 delivered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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