utvolman99

this is not my car (really really wish it was...) this is just a car that had the right angle to photoshop.

I have thought about using sheet metal and a break. I can have access to a break at work and feel that might be the way to go. However, I am going to see what kind of channel is available. It would be much easier to do the same with preformed thin channel .

would be to take angle iron and cut/weld at the right angle... It would not match the lip exactly but I'm not sure that I want it to anyway. Once the iron was cut and welded it could be ground, puttied and painted just as slick as the car....

Well, I was thinking though the grill based on the thread I started yesterday about the front bumper. I think this look would help modernize the front of the car. However, I am not really sure how to go about making it happen? I suppose I could make a fiberglass mold of the front lip of the hood and use that as a female mold? Has anyone seen anything similar to this on a Z? Any input would be helpfull

I think I have a pretty good plan for the front bumper on my 73 240. I really like the way the Zs look with an agressive air dam and no bumper. The only issue is the indentions for the bumper make the car look like there is something missing. Here are some photoshop pictures of what I am planning on doing... Before After Before After Before After I am not sure if the existing brackets will work without some support but that should be easy enough if needed. I have a scrap 240 bumper that is bent in the middle. I think Ill cut that one up and see if I like the look. I am planning gun metal grey with black front bumpers and no rear bumper

just to see how it runs before I add a stall or change heads... This is a build I came up with a long time ago two years ago with the help of grumpyvette (I think he still posts on here?). The idea was that because this is such a light car the engine is built a little towards the higher end than normal. I don't think I will miss the low end torque with the first gear in the 700R4... However, I would like to eventually make the switch to the WCT5 or T56. With that said, you can't beat $75 for a good working 700R4!

I do want to clear one thing up about my HP numbers. That is 420 HP at the flywheel so I am estimating somewhere between 315 and 345 RWHP and 335 - 370 RWft-lbs of torque. I know that on the L6 board they are saying that the L28T is good to around 400 RWHP...

I guess a better question would be are you all happy with how your car drives? I have read all the suggestions for working out some of these issues but am not sure how many people have a finished product that they are happy with?

I have a 73 240 355 project about half way complete. I am regaining some of the itch to finish it. One thing though that I have really been wondering is if I made the right decision with this car. I am seeing more and more very quick L6 cars with a 280ZX Turbo engine. I think that swap would of been much easier and much much cheaper! I was wondering though about performance? I know we are all one big happy family here and am not looking for a V8 vs. Turbo thread. What I am looking for here is what kind of performance/drivability should I have verses the performance/drivability I would of gotten with a turbo Six... Here is my setup... 355 Chevy small block Dart Iron Eagle 215 Heads with a quick home port and polish Competition Cams Xtreme Energy solid lifter 256/268 Victor Jr. Intake Holley 750 Vac secondary Eagle forged rods Hypereutectic pistons 9.3 - 1 compression ratio Stock 700R4 with Stock Lockup converter R200 Diff with 3.73 gears My desk top dyno tells me that I should be pumping out about 420 HP and around 440ftlbs of torque... give it to me straight...

Okay after two years and two houses, a new job and getting married I am jumping back on the V8 240Z band waggon. One thing that discouraged me was that I had ridden in a couple of SBC Z Cars and was just not impressed... 1. They were both VERY hot inside and it was only in the mid 70s outside. I guess those big engines give off a lot of heat! 2. VVVIIIBBBRRRAAATTTIIIOOONNN!! both of them sounded and felt like the car was coming appart when they were really given the gas! I am assuming this can be fixed/helped by somehow getting the proper diveshaft angles? 3. I felt as if I needed a gas mask in both. I am not trying to be picky here but he exhaust smell was just bad! I honestly could care less for myself but I will be driving this to work and can't have my clothes smelling like that all day... This is what I have planned to combat each of the above but am not sure I am doing enough or on the right track? 1. I am going to use Brown Bread extensively inside me care for noise and heat control... 2. What is the best way to phase a driveline? 3. I have a new seal kit and hope this will help? Any help would be great...

I talked with my brother again and it is indeed a 429 Cobra Jet. I am not sure if this makes a huge difference? What 4 speed transmission would bolt up to this?

All, my father recently passed away. He ran a car repair shop from a 5 bay garage behind his and my mother's house. One of this things I found back there was a 428 Cobra Jet. My father's notes said that it was pulled out of a truck and thought to be a 390. When my father ran the numbers it is indeed a 428 cobra jet (I will double check this). It has a spun bearing but doesn't really look that bad. Anyway, I was thinking of buying this from my mother. I am not sure what it is worth and am not really sure what I would put it in. Here are my questions... 1. What is this engine worth? 2. Is this engine special enough to buld the engine then buy a car for it later. 3. I had always planned on buying an older Mustang 65 - 69 fastback and building it for a driver. My plan was to stroke a FI 5.0 roller motor and run a five speed. The Cobra Jet would eliminate the 65 and 66 mustangs and would be a lot heavier. I am not sure what the performance tradeoffs would be? Thanks for your help...

http://www.foxnews.com/story/0,2933,120309,00.html

I looked for it before I posted but couldn't find it.

You have to check this out! http://www.k-fee.de/v3/video/Kfeeauto.mpg Enjoy

Just imagine the racoon's story today! "He was a big one, probably at least 200lbs! I'm not sure if you guys know anything about human but they can really get after you when you piss them off!"

I did a search on Yahoo using the words donkey, door and switch. I figured that I would be able find something out there. Sure enough here is a link to the very same problem. Only difference is that the door with the donkey is opened in this one as opposed to the empty door. Here is the link for all you nay sayers. http://www.metamath.com/webstat/b2.rules/dealdiag.html I suppose though that someone will reply and say once again that its a fifty fifty chance!

Ummm... I suppose thats new math. Like I said above you must take the question as it is written. For the one time you actually have to make the decision you picked a door that is not empty and the empty one was opened. So therefore when calculating the odds you must assume that you never start off with the empty door. Because of the way the question is stated this is a valid assumption. One easier way to look at this is to just throw the donkey out all together. Look at it as two empty doors and one car. This would mean that the only way you would ever lose if you always switched would be if you correctly picked the car from the beginning. Below are two columns of randomly generated numbers ranging between 1 and 3 (Minitab generation). The first column is the door that you initially pick. The second column is the door the car is behind. Pick Car 1 3 -On this pick you would pick door 1 and door 2 would be opened. If you switched you would win 1 2 -Door 3 would be opened if you switch and win 3 2 -Swithch and win 3 3 -Switch and lose 2 1 -Win 3 2 -Win 2 3 -Win 1 1 -Lose 3 1 -Win 1 1 -Lose 2 1 -W 2 2 -L 3 2 -W 2 1 -W 3 1 -W 3 2 -W 3 3 -L 2 1 -W 2 1 -W 2 2 -L 1 3 -W 2 2 -L 3 1 -W 1 2 -W 3 3 -L As you can see from the numbers above if you switch you will win 17 times out of 25 or aprox 2/3 of the time.

Well' date=' I hate to admit it but I was in a hurry and didn't have time for spell check. I am dyslexic and have a real problem with spelling. SORRY

I can't belive that some of you guys are still arguning that it's a 50 50 chance. If an empty door is opened for you, you would ALWAYS switch. When you switch you have a 2/3 chance. I really dont know how else to explane it to make it any more clear. I can tell you thought that I am certified to teach Six Sigma statstical analysis tools and am also a mechanical engineer working as a Six Sigma Black Belt. My company is considered to be in the top three Six Sigma programs nationally. YOU ALWAYS SWITCH!

That is Six Sigma. But Six Sigma as a program is a project methodology. There are four designation for Six Sigma positions at most companies. White Belt - Educated in very general six sigma methodology Green Belt - A little more education and must complete a project using six sigma methodology Black Belt - Full time position uses statistical analysis tools and structured approach to solve major issues affecting quality Master Black Belt - Is more or less the black belts boss At DuPont they require all engineers to be Green Belt certified. Also, if you want to be promoted into management you must be Black Belt certified.