Guest Anonymous Posted May 28, 2003 Share Posted May 28, 2003 I have a question about the distance from the center of the hole from one motor mount to the other. The distance I got off my small block 66 Nova was 16 5/8"s. There are a few similiarities between the two. The hubs off the Nova will fit on the Z. About 6 months ago I changed the whole front suspension on the Nova to the strut rack and pinion I got off an early Z. I was able to use the Nova hubs because they use the same bearings and have the Z rotors drilled to the 5 on 4 3/4 pattern on the nova. I used spacers that I had machined to get the distance from the rotors to the calipers correct and now have the 5 lug Nova wheels on the Z struts. If any one has the motor mount distance it would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peej410 Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 what do you mean by motor mount distance, do you want the distance between the two holes in the subframe towers? do u want the distance on the block itself? if u have a 66 nova i believe that the way the motor mounts bolt to the subframe uses a 1/2 bolt that goes through the clamshell this is different from the Z that uses a stud that sticks out of the motor mount and bolts to the subframe, let me know what measurement u need and ill get it for you - pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 I need the distance from the center of the holes that the bolts go in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peej410 Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 19 1/2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 There must be different Chevy motor mounts because I think I can bolt my motor out of my Nova right in at 16 5/8 give or take 1/8 inch . Are you using regular chevy mounts to the motor. The two holes I am talking about have a 3 inch bolt going thru them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gprix1 Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 388wtexasZ, Is there any way you could post some pic's on your suspension work? I am installing a Corvette rear suspension and still trying to decide what to do with my front suspension since the bolt patterns front to rear will now be different. - Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peej410 Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 There must be different Chevy motor mounts because I think I can bolt my motor out of my Nova right in at 16 5/8 give or take 1/8 inch . Are you using regular chevy mounts to the motor. The two holes I am talking about have a 3 inch bolt going thru them im using mounts off of a 71 pickup the bolt is like 3 inches long but its 1/2 diameter. i just took measurements yesterday using a bunch of points so i can extrapolate the point in space where the chevy motor will sit so as to make my mounts which will sit atop my custom framerails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 As noted, the JTR mounting system does not use the through bolt mounts like the 60's and early 70's passenger cars, but it uses the 67-72 small block truck mount. This style mount has a single large bolt that threads in perpendicular to where your Nova's mounts bolt. Buy the JTR book because you are going to need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peej410 Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 mike, do u know of anyone whos made their own motor mounts? im making my own mostly because i want to be able to drop out the whole front subframe without removing the motor for future suspension mods..... this way id be able to lower the inner suspension pivot points to keep bumpsteer to a minimum i cant see any downsides to the way i want to make it, chime in if you can think of any Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gprix1 Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 Here is how I was planning to do my motor mounts. Just as you are, I'm planning on removing the stock 240Z mounts and add my own to stronger frame rails. Seems like much cleaner way to go and creates plenty of room for accessories. This pic is similiar to how I plan to weld it to the frame rails. Another, with the motor mount attached (it's swung down from it's own weight but you just rotate it up and mount to the motor). One with motor installed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 I emailed Art Morrison and found out it is 16 3/8. The JTR book would take out half the fun of building the car and the satisfaction of engineering it myself. I made my motor mounts in about an hour for a total cost of about 5 bucks. Those look like pictures of a late model Corvette suspension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 Transdapt makes a universal engine mount cradle. It uses the through bolt style mounts. I don't know if it would cause exhaust routing problems, but it could easily be mounted to the stock or existing frame rails by either welding or designing your own end brackets that rest on the frame rail and can be bolted through the frame rail. I think you are going the roundabout way. How often are you going to be dropping the crossmember? I would buy a universal engine support that is designed to support the engine or trans on the fenders, or design one of my own that rested on the frame rails while the crossmember was out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peej410 Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 Transdapt makes a universal engine mount cradle. It uses the through bolt style mounts. I don't know if it would cause exhaust routing problems, but it could easily be mounted to the stock or existing frame rails by either welding or designing your own end brackets that rest on the frame rail and can be bolted through the frame rail. I think you are going the roundabout way. How often are you going to be dropping the crossmember? I would buy a universal engine support that is designed to support the engine or trans on the fenders, or design one of my own that rested on the frame rails while the crossmember was out. ive thought about one of those cross members but i dont see the point, if i ever wanted to drop the oil pan id have to pull the engine out so that the sump would clear the transmission bellhousing. i dont really like the idea of the setback plates used in the jtr setup i think that is a cheesy way to make it bolton. my motor mounts will be made up of 2 inch 1/8 wall tube cut to fit a piece of 5 inch wide 2x2 angle they will bolt through the top and the side through the frame rail. i will cut two holes large enough to insert a plate with a piece of tube with the same ID as the bolts i use to reinforce the mounting assembly thus making the motor mounts removable from the frame. i work at an automotive fabrication shop and even my boss (25 years experience with porsche race cars) says the jtr method seems cheesy, so this is the way im going to do it. ill be able to put my motor wherever i want and it will be much stronger than anything ive seen whil still retaining the setback position Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted May 30, 2003 Share Posted May 30, 2003 I didn't use a cross member on my mounts . I took a 2 in. peice of 2 X 2 square tubing and mounted it on top of the Z motor perches. I then cut two peices of 3/4 inch tubing 2 5/8 inches long and put them on top of the square tubing and moved them out equallly until I came up with 16 1/2 inches. I used a metal clamp sort of like a large clothes pin to hold the 3/4 tubing in place. When I had the dimensions right I tacked the round tubing in place. Then I took it off an mig welded it securely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peej410 Posted May 30, 2003 Share Posted May 30, 2003 yeah i thought about doing that too but id really like to be able to move my whole front crossmember up and down to compensate for lowering the car to eliminate bumpsteer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted May 30, 2003 Share Posted May 30, 2003 If you want to do that why not run a motor plate and a mid mount. I have an early Z suspension on my Nova I have hardly any bump stear that I can tell. I put the floor jack under it and jacked it up and the wheel stay about the same. A far cry from the old Nova suspension. When the wheels would come of the ground they would wave at the spectators. I have now added travel limiters to keep the front end from coming up so much and my sixty foot has come down a little. I was at an auto parts store today and the guy in front of me was buying a chevy truck motor mount like you were talking about. First time I have ever noticed that they had changed their design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peej410 Posted May 30, 2003 Share Posted May 30, 2003 i considered a motor plate but i want everything to be able to break down easy and come apart easy, i always try and design my setups for ease of use later on down the road. which is why most of my stuff is functional and ugly i also intend this to be a street car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted May 30, 2003 Share Posted May 30, 2003 I forgot to mention on my Nova I got rid of the lower control arm and strut rod in favor of 1 inch tubing and and rod ends. I still use the Z crossmember and put a spacer between the rod ends to take up the extra space. Now I can change the alignment the same way you adjust a 4 link. May this has something to do with my lack of bump steer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peej410 Posted May 30, 2003 Share Posted May 30, 2003 that could be part of it, from my experience (minimal) if your steering endlinks and your a-arms are parallel to the ground at normal ride height you are right in the sweet spot of where things should be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted May 30, 2003 Share Posted May 30, 2003 388wtexasZ' date='Is there any way you could post some pic's on your suspension work? I am installing a Corvette rear suspension and still trying to decide what to do with my front suspension since the bolt patterns front to rear will now be different. - Rick[/quote'] Rick, this is what I was talking about when you emailed me. The Chevy hub fits on the Datsun spindle like it was made for it. All you have to do is use a spacer to center the caliper you are using. You can use an 89 Toyota 4runner caliper, and it will bolt to the stock Datsun caliper mount. Try to get used stuff to test fit first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.