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HybridZ

Max power for stock bottom end


Guest the_dj

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Guest the_dj

Assuming there is no detonation and I'm not running lean, where should I draw the line?

 

It's a GM crate motor, but not the ZZ4, just the lower priced one.

 

I would much rather keep the boost down now and up it later when I replace the bottom end than have pieces of block and rotating assembly tear holes in my firewall and hood.

 

Is it safe to pull 550 ponies out of this motor? If so, I should be ok with running around 6psi like I intended.

 

Sam

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I seem to remember reading in one of David Vizzards books that GM rates the 2 bolt blocks for up to 500 HP on the bottom end. Not sure if the rods or crank are up to the task, might have to get aftermarket forged stuff. If yours is a four bolt, it should be good for a little more, although their not much stronger than a 2 bolt, because the extra bolts are drilled into the webbing outside of the mains which is a signifigant load bearing area of the block under heavy loads. Best be would be a 2 bolt block drilled for Mildon splayed 4 bolt main caps, which drill the extra holes angled out into the block to avoid weakening it. Hope this helps.

 

 

Mike

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Guest the_dj

What is the weak point in my bottom end (rods/pistons/crank)? Also, is there any way to tell if the pistons are cast or hypers, or maybe what the rods/crank are made from, without pulling it all out?

 

Sam

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What is the weak point in my bottom end (rods/pistons/crank)? Also' date=' is there any way to tell if the pistons are cast or hypers, or maybe what the rods/crank are made from, without pulling it all out?

 

Sam[/quote']

 

Weak point in the majority of engines are the rods and rod bolts, and main bolts.

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You could always go with a Scat cast steel crank and forged H-beam rods. Look around on ebay, there are normally a lot of guys selling these. ARP main studs and rod bolts are a good idea too. The crank/rods/studs/bolts will make for a nearly indestructible bottom end, even on a two bolt block.

 

 

Mike

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