Guest bobnagga Posted June 13, 2003 Share Posted June 13, 2003 Okay guys, heres the deal... I gots me a 82 ZX running a rebuilt L6 and a 83 5 speed manual. I have no idea what year the motor is as the guy who sold it to me didn't have any paperwork. But that's not the point. It ran like a champeen when I bought it last July. It had an automatic that was in the process of going out. The guy told me it was a rearend problem. (he also told me that the coil was part of that California smog sh*t and if I took it off it would run a whole lot better) But that's not the point. It ran. I had the '83 motor put in with the tranny and I brought it home and it never started again. Finally after about a month, I got sick of the damn thing and put the original motor back in. NOW IT DOESN'T RUN AND I'M ABOUT TO FLIP OUT!!! But anyway. It ran when I first got it in before I put on the gasket on the back side of the exhaust manifold... I put that gasket on, and then it would idle but I couldn't give it any gas. So I got to messing with the vacuum to the intake and the idle screw. Now as soon as it tries to start, it dies just like that. I don't believe it's the vacuum as I got about nine underhood pics off of zdriver.com. http://zdriver.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=5529 Any ideas??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted June 13, 2003 Share Posted June 13, 2003 No idea, here's what I'd try: Check all wires and connectors. Even if a connector is connected, it could have some corrosion inside that prevents a good contact. Check the coil. I have had many, many, many no-start situations that turned out to be caused be a bad coil. That's all I got. Since you've swapped the motor in and out, I'm thinking missing wire someplace. I have never pulled out or put in a motor without forgetting at least one wire or other connection someplace - but that's just me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bobnagga Posted June 13, 2003 Share Posted June 13, 2003 well, I didn't bother hooking up the reverse lights... and the connector on the condensor isn't hooked up. I have no clue where that goes. I'm not talking about the side on the coil. It's the other side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxgts-4 Posted June 17, 2003 Share Posted June 17, 2003 ok bob I,m going for something simple here, you said you didn't hook up the reverse lights does that mean you didn't connect the inhibitor switch as well. Two of the four connections (at the trans) are for the reverse lights the other two are the inhibitor switch. If they are not connected the car wont start, same as if it was in gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bobnagga Posted June 17, 2003 Share Posted June 17, 2003 yeah, but no. Without those hooked up, it would kill the starter and not even crank. It still cranks... It was weird, when I first got it back together, I couldn't figure out why it would only start in reverse... Then I went under there and switched the wires around. not really. umm. I still can't finger it out. The condensor at the coil isn't hooked up, but I don't see anywhere that would go. I know that one side hooks up to the side of the coil, but where's the other end go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxgts-4 Posted June 18, 2003 Share Posted June 18, 2003 Sorry misread post (problem with coming here late at night). 1- Condenser lead goes to earth spade on side of distributer but engine will run without it. 2- Check PCV circuit is sealed no cracked hoses. 3- Check that brake booster hose is connected and sealed. 4- Check that EGR valve is working not frozen shut or open. 5- Check that air regulator valve is not frozen open or shut. 6- Check that Electrical and vacuum connections on DCDD are correct, note man and auto may be different they are on early models. 7- Check all electrical connections and earth connections. 8- Check that fuel pump is operating and there is pressure at fuel rail. Double check everything because if it worked before then it has to be something that you have done that it doesn't work now. I had my brothers 79 that I changed the wiring loom in, doing it in my spare moments, it wouldn't start even after checking everything. So decided to do other things only to find the CPU under other stuff on passenger seat. Most problems usually turn out to be something simple. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bobnagga Posted June 20, 2003 Share Posted June 20, 2003 hey, guys, I don't think it's any of this stuff. It ran before I fixed the exhaust leak on the underside of the manifold where the pipe bolts on. after I got that gasket on, it would only idle. now, I gotta figure out where I had all the vacuum hoses to get it to idle again. also, which mark down on the bottom of the pulleys do I use as the timing mark? There's like four notches, and I'm not sure which one to use. I would just stick my finger over the hole, but I can't turn the engine by hand... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhaTTy Posted June 21, 2003 Share Posted June 21, 2003 You said it ran before you fixed the exhaust leak, and after you fixed it, it would only idle and you couldn't give it any gas... sounds like the catylyc convertor is completely clogged up (or at least something in the exhaust system).... maybe a rat crawled in there and died or maybe somebody stuck a potato up the exhaust pipe.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bobnagga Posted June 21, 2003 Share Posted June 21, 2003 could be the CAT. The muffler was so rusted out that when I took out the entire system, it fell off when I unbolted it. That little L6 sounds like a truck now. How would I go about clearing out the CAT? There are too many bends to just shove a piece of re-bar in there and nock the stuff out... Maybe I could loosen the pipe at the manifold to make it leak again to see if it is clogged? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhaTTy Posted June 21, 2003 Share Posted June 21, 2003 The CAT should be bolted onto the rest of the eaxust pipe... unless somebody welded a different one into the system... I would try disconnecting it at the front of the CAT, and if it runs... hook it back up and themn disconnect it right after the CAT, and if it doesn't run, then you have found your problem... Way easier than disconnecting the manifold again... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted June 21, 2003 Share Posted June 21, 2003 Ok first of all you cant just stick a piece of pipe in there to "unclog" it. The inside of a CAT looks like a honeycomb basically so if you stick any thing in there you will just tear up the inside of it. The cheap way to test if its clogged or not is to put a "test pipe" in there and see if it runs better. Just put a regular piece of pipe in there and see if it runs better. I dont think this is your problem though. Your car should still run if the CAT is clogged up, it just wont run very good. Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxgts-4 Posted June 21, 2003 Share Posted June 21, 2003 Well I dont quite see how we got to an exhaust problem the increased back pressure could still highlight a faulty EGR valve. If the engine idled then died when throttle was applied, there is probably a vacuum leak (EGR-PCV) or blocked fuel filter. As for timing marks looking from above they read left to right Advance 20Deg,15,10,5,0(TDC)and 5deg Retarded. If you had to screw the idle air bleed in, it would suggest vacuum leak. Keep trying and smiling. Neil 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bobnagga Posted June 21, 2003 Share Posted June 21, 2003 umm... the EGR's been removed from the system. That is, the vacuum disconnected and plugged. It ran like that when I bought it...it ran good like that. But as for the CAT, it IS welded on. When I put this motor in, I had to manhandle the entire pipe out as one piece. And yes, that's the idea. To unclog it... completely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bobnagga Posted June 22, 2003 Share Posted June 22, 2003 And I know how to read the timing marks. There's just four notches in the pulley not the degrees BTDC. You know the mark that swings around that the light flashes on when #1 plug fires? Well there's four of those marks. I'm not talking about the degree markers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxgts-4 Posted June 22, 2003 Share Posted June 22, 2003 Well having timing marks on the pulley as well as the Timing case would certainly be confusing. 1- remove spark plugs (to make turning engine over easier) 2- remove dist cap noting position of No1 terminal (No 1 plug lead) 3- using bar and socket on crank pulley bolt turn engine by hand till rotor is almost up to No 1 position. 4- remove rocker cover. 5- watch valves on No6 cyl, exhaust is closing and intake is about to open 6- turn engine until the two valves are "rocking" judge the mid point and check position of marks on pulley in relation to TDC timing mark and note or mark the closest pulley notch. The position of TDC will be within a couple of degrees using this method, unless timing chain is severely worn. If the EGR is frozen open it is just like a major vacuum leak. I've worked on 4 280zx motors recently and the EGR and Air regulating valves were stuffed on every one thats why I keep suggesting it. If it is a blocked cat you can always do the New Zealand trick of smashing the internal ceramic honeycomb with a steel bar and hammer. Hope you solve it. Neil 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bobnagga Posted June 22, 2003 Share Posted June 22, 2003 The new zealand trick is what I was planning on. Or maybe just straightpiping it. But how could a disconnected, plugged EGR go from closed to open with no vacuum to it? um. It actually ran better before I put that one hose from the bottom of the crankcase to the bottom of the intake on. Maybe that's plugged somewheres. But I think I have a simpler idea... How would one go about isolating just the EFI and ignition on the computer and scrapping the rest? Maybe I could get an old double deuces intake and a points distributor and make it strictly mechanical? There's a few older Z's in the local junkyard that I could steal the manifolds off of and rebuild the carbs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxgts-4 Posted June 23, 2003 Share Posted June 23, 2003 Ok, the three things that happen to EGRs is they jam closed and clog up (best scenario), they jam open when engine is running and hot (worst scenario) or the heat shield is removed and the diagphram cracks. Remove PCV from bottom centre of manifold shake it, if it rattles its OK if not soak it in solvent till it does. Normally the EFI on 280zx are very reliable most problems are the same as carbies vacuum leaks and fuel blockages or contamination. Persevere and you will get on top of it, my first 280zx engine frustrated the hell out of me too. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxgts-4 Posted June 23, 2003 Share Posted June 23, 2003 Just had another thought. If it ran better with PCV circuit open you may have an intake blockage, check air cleaner and intake openings as well as seeing that the flap in the air flow meter is moving freely. Neil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bobnagga Posted June 23, 2003 Share Posted June 23, 2003 there is no air box. it cant be the filter if it's not there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.