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Inspecting someone else's swap


Guest Nic-Rebel450CA

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Guest Nic-Rebel450CA

Hey everyone

 

I have found what looks like may be my first Z. :-D

It is a 70 240Z in pretty good condition. Ultimately I plan to do a hybrid conversion, but for now I needed to look for a Z already running good.

 

The Z has been converted to the driveline from an 81 280Z (eng, trans, rear-end). Anyone have any advice on inspecting the conversion to make sure I am not buying a car only to find out that whoever did the swap wasnt the brightest bulb in the lamp? :?:

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All of the L series motors are a direct swap. All you want to make sure is that the wiring harness and computer are from the same year range car as the motor. If it runs and does everything well, I'd not worry about it...

 

Mike

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Also make sure the fuel tank and fuel supply/return lines were modified/swapped in a safe manner, and that the fuel pump is secure. I suppose you could also check to see if the FI harness has a fuse/fusible link/whatever (I'm a little embarrassed, I have a FI car and don't know how this is handled stock...I know my ZX Turbo harness has a fusible link though).

Was the car you're looking at converted to electronic ignition too? I don't know how the N/A ZX cars worked, just wondering if they have a separate ignition box like my 78 280Z. That may have made a later 280Z tachometer necessary (?), I know there's some difference between 240 and 280 tachs.

One last thing, if there's not a grommet at the firewall you'll want to add one so the wires don't have the insulation chafed off, since the prev. owner would have had to cut a hole for the wiring harness.

Oh and I just had a thought, did he even swap the FI harness or is he running the 81 engine with the 240 carbs?

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Guest Nic-Rebel450CA
Also make sure the fuel tank and fuel supply/return lines were modified/swapped in a safe manner' date=' and that the fuel pump is secure.

 

Oh and I just had a thought, did he even swap the FI harness or is he running the 81 engine with the 240 carbs?[/quote']

 

He mentioned something about a breather line for the fuel tank leaking and he smells gas any time he fills the tank all the way... :?

 

He said the engine has the "newer style SU carbs with the round tops"

 

The gas line issue didnt sound very pleasant to me, he also mentioned that the U-joints clunk when he goes around hard turns. (which didnt sound very good).

 

By no means am I a rookie when it comes to working on cars so I know I can handle the work, but I am just trying to decide if I should try to hold out a lil longer. This car is $3000. Z's seem to be pretty scarce around here and one does come along it seems to get bought before I even get a chance to call :cry:

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Oh, well if he's running the engine with carb's there should have been very little butchering of the car to swap the engine. The round top carbs are a plus (vs. square top) from what I understand, easier to adjust. The fuel breather issue is probably one you'd deal with on any 240 then, since he most likely didn't modify the fuel system at all, it's just old. In your position, I would then base my decision to buy based on the condition of the body (RUST!!!), and trust that you can handle anything mechanical that happens. I'd buy a rust-free bare shell over a car with flawless mechanicals but holes in the floor, frame rails, rockers, fenders, etc. Or better yet, buy both, and put the good mechanicals in the good body :-D But that's just me. The rust in my car nags at the back of my mind whenever I make plans for the car.

BTW that fuel tank problem IS something that should be fixed, gas fumes anywhere are dangerous. I don't know how tough a fix that one is, maybe look into it.

[edit] one more thing to think about, I doubt you'll ever kick yourself too hard for passing up a deal, but you'll probably hate if you find yourself stuck with a car you wish you hadn't bought. If there's a doubt in your mind, I'd wait.

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Guest Nic-Rebel450CA

Thanks

 

The car looks to be rust free from the pics, I will definitely be checking for that when I check it in person.

 

The only reason I am really hoping for a mechanically sound Z is that I want to be able to drive it for a while until I get the space to do a JTR swap.

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Gotcha. In the case of dropping in a big-power V8 I would say structural integrity is doubly important :D Be relentless in looking for the rust, if you find some that doesn't completely discourage you from buying the car, at least use it as a bargaining point. Good luck!

This car has a plus of having the R200 in it at least...it should hold up better in the long run and it's already set up for a 300ZXT LSD, if you can find one.

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Guest Nic-Rebel450CA

Thanks everyone for your tips! :wink:

 

 

I saw the car yesterday and checked EVERYWHERE and the car is GREAT!

 

I will be picking it up soon, already got some money down for him to hold it for me. :D

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Guest Nic-Rebel450CA
Get us some pics :-D

 

 

Got some pics in my profile and I will be taking some more pics in my friend's shop when I get the Z :)

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