Engine troubles need suggestions

[Guest the_dj]

Hey guys. I was working on the brakes when I noticed my radiator overflow container was EMPTY. Found antifreeze leaking from A) behind the timing chain cover and from under the right head (from the front) in front of cyl. #1.

 

I guess it's time for a complete tear down to make sure I fix whatever's going on. At the same time, I'd like to modify some aspects.

 

I am looking for 500-550hp, and maybe more if it's not unreasonable.

 

I have a SBC 350 right now making 300-320hp. All components are stock from a crate motor except the TPI intake and the SLP runners.

 

A) what are your opinions on what may be wrong?

I have stock heads, what are good ones to replace it with? I was looking at the Edelbrock Victor Jr., or maybe some AFR or Trickflow heads. I'm on a budget, but want performance. Any suggestions?

C) Should I get a 383 bottom end? Or is it not worth the money for the level of performance gained back? What components should I use if I go 383? Remember I'm on a budget.

D) What cam should I use? I have the stock one now.

E) I'm going to switch from my TPI intake to the Holley Stealth Ram. Should I get injectors bigger than 24#? If so, what size? New fuel pump too/size?

 

Thanks,

Sam

[fl327]

i might be wrong, but try this, gunk the front of the car,(be careful cause of efi components)

wash it off, and start the car and watch it where you saw leaks(fillup coolant for sure)check hoses for leaks, could be spilling over, the timing cover doesnt hold antifreeze, it sounds like you have a loose hose clamp on the thermostat housing, or maybe leaking out of the housing itself.

superdan said that car had 250hp, does it put out more now?

i say stick with what you have for now, its a good setup with low miles.

if its not from there, i really have no idea whats going, could be the water pump? i really

dont think a complete tear down is neccessary.

for 500 hp you gotta do a lot, and i think your intake is limited to 5k at most

heads would be nice, but you dont have the intake to make it work right, and you might

be slower. they make a lot of cams for tpi apps, you could bump one of those in and you would get up a little better,

[grumpyvette]

well first let me point out speed costs money and your not likely to have an engine that stays together very long with cheap parts, but that said,

http://www.smokemup.com/utilities/calc/fuel_injector.cfm

if you play with this youll see you need about 40 lb injectors to pull 550 hp(42lb would be better).(BTW the HOLLEY STEALTH RAM IS GOING TO BE A BIG HELP as it flows much better than the other efi intakes)

the formula for potential hp from air flow is (.257 x flow at max cam lift x 8= potential hp.)

so your going to need a MINIMUM OF 275cfm of flow at your cam lift to pull 550hp (and the lower the lift and durration that 275cfm can be reached at the more likely the engines rpm and torque levels can be easily met with reasonable cost rotateing parts. that means you better be looking at heads that flow around an advertized 300-320 cfm intake port flow.

heres a few

http://www.procylinderheads.com/223260035A.htm

AFR 210cc SBC Racing Cylinder Head

The Most Powerful Standard Racing Head Available

These reasonably priced AFR 210cc intake port small block Chevy angle plug cylinder heads are available in three stages of performance. The Race Ready version features 70% CNC ported intakes while the higher flowing Competition version features 100% CNC ported intakes. Both come with 100% CNC ported 76cc combustion chambers and 80cc exhaust ports with a 3/4” thick head deck (ideal for nitrous or blower applications). In addition we also offer the “as cast” Stage 1 heads for 210cc performance on a budget. Standard valves are 2.080 intake and 1.600 exhaust with AFR’s hardened ductile iron interlocking valve seats. The exceptional flow characteristics, 23º valve angle, and standard valve spacing make this the perfect head for 350 to 400 cid engines in bracket drag cars, sportsman oval trackers, and highly modified street class cars operating between 3000 and 7500 rpm (higher rpm ranges possible depending on combination of parts).The 210cc heads are available in either standard or spread port exhaust. Straight plug versions and down nozzle provisions are special order only. No special parts are required.

the larger your displacement the easier the hp will be to achieve.and your going to need a forged crank, rods,(6")forged pistons to turn the rpms and handle the pressures that 550 plus hp in a 383 will require long term and nitrous will sure help also!!