Jump to content
HybridZ
Sign in to follow this  
jpstahle

280Z LT-1 problems...trans clearance and d-port headers...

Recommended Posts

Hello all.

 

I finally got my LT1 bolted to the engine perches. The reason for all my trouble was the 4L60E hitting the trans tunnel on the passenger side. After hammering and pulling the engine out, etc, and still having issues, I did a barbaric deed and cut the trans tunnel on that side. Problems solved. :-D

Anyhow, the engine sits pretty good now and tomorrow I'll see about getting the trans crossmember mounted and repairing the damage I did to the trans tunnel. Plenty of clearance now.

 

Problem #2. I bought the block hugger headers for the LT1 from Thermal Tech coatings in VA bacause of you guys. They arrived earlier this week and look great. I'm very happy with what I got. After attempting to install them, it looks like the collector makes contact with the knock sensor on the driver's side and it definitely hits on the passenger side. Before I try to reinvent the wheel and try to move these somewhere else, has anyone else already dealt with this?

 

Also, I am running the engine oil cooler on my LT1 as it was from a cop car. The rack and pinion is out of the car right now, but it looks like it and the steering shaft are gonna hit. Anyone out there have any problems using this setup?

 

I also bought the Griffin 24x19 radiator from Summit. I tried to source a radiator from the parts stores here, but after dealing with the extinct Camaro radiator and having the price go up as I explored other units, I soon got into the neighborhood of the Griffin unit price-wise and thought why not? :wink:

 

That's all for now and thanks for all your help so far. Hopefully it will run soon!

 

-Jake

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't recall a discussion on that brand of block huggers. I do know if it is in JTR setback that Hookers fit nicely and are now in my ongoing second Hybrid. I went through the cutting/grinding routine with a generic set on first Hybrid. As you repair that tunnel hole you should send a nice card to your 8 pound hammer for overlooking it in clearancing process. I removed the cooler on my LT1(from an F body) because it allows a lot more exhaust room. So I can't help you on shaft clearance, although those metal pipes should bend if necessary if you decide to keep cooler. If you remove it one source of an adapter is Street and rformance...about $17. Anybody know a bottom radiator hose that works with Camaro second series style that JTR recommends to the LT1????? So far it looks like the STOCK upper hose works for me....was I really this lucky? john

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just mounted my TTC headers and had the same problem. These headers are so tight they touch the edge of the oil pan :) I pulled the knock sensor and made a bracket to move it. I plan on mounting the bracket to the 3/8 mounting point just in frount of the sensor. My '94 only has one knock sensor on the passenger side. Get a 1/4 NPT plug and pull the sensor, be sure to put a catch can under it, it's in the water channel. Wrap the plug with teflon tape and thread it in where the sensor came out. You can move the sensor to the motor mount plate, I've read that's where other folks have moved it. If you check using the search function for 'knock sensor' you'll find a link to a company that sells an adapter to mount the knock sensor to the oil pan. I opted to make a bracket and move the sensor that way.

 

- Joe

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yup, those pesky knock sensors get in the way. You can move it to about anywere on the motor or bellhousing. I can't remember were I put mine, but I do remember retapping the hole to match the threads.

 

While we're talking LT1's, the A/C compressor is going to hit the JTR mounts. If I change from the F-body brackets to Corvette brackes will it solve this?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I move the knock sensor to the passenger side of the block, just above the oil filter boss. There is a blind hole there that just needs to be drilled out slightly and tapped to accept the threads of the KS. I also had to very slightly grind a bit off the edge of the block at the bellhousing boss to clear the 'bulb' part of the knock sensor. Remember, the oem location of the KS is in a coolant passage, so you will need a plug for the hole once you remove the KS.

 

Tim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK. I figured someone ran into the knock sensor problem. Relocating them to the setback plates seems like it may keep 'em out of trouble.

 

As far as cutting the tunnel goes, it ain't a big deal. Weld it up....and go on. The hammers I had over there (my car is in my grandfather's garage as I do not have a garage presently) were not big enough to convince the tunnel to get outta the 4L60E's way. The tunnel will be a little roomier without encroaching on passenger space. :-D

 

Yeah, those TTC block huggers are REALLY tight. I'm happy with 'em though....very nice pieces for the price!

 

Once again.....thanks for the replies.

 

-Jake

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...