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Help Head removal question


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Hey guys just got a free 350 long block and im trying to remove the heads. I have removed all the head bolts from both heads...except for 1 bolt on each. I was wondering if the center studs on the inside of the head closest to the edge had a different torque rating. I cant get either of them off on both sides. I am having to use a deep socket to get to the bolt because of the valve springs. IS there any way to remove those without a special tool. Then I could use a shorter socket and get a grip on it. Anyone that can help with my dumb little delima that would be great.

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Guest cbrunberg

Removing the valve sprins is easy without a special tool, putting it back on...

 

Take a deep socket that fits over the stem lock must be larger diameter than stem locks) but isn't bigger than the spring (about the same outside diameter of the sping or retainer). Place it over the spring and smack it quickly with a hammer. The retainer will compress the spring faster than the valve can react and the stem locks will pop free. It may take a few tries but it works. I've been doing this with heads on the bench and in wrecking yards for 20 years.

 

Caution when loose the valve will drop down into the bore. this shouldn't be a problem if your removing the head anyway. Other wise rotate the piston up before you do it.

 

 

Carl

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Guest cbrunberg

I just thought. You should retorque the other bolts and remove the stubborn ones first. Reinstalling the other bolts may take pressure of the ones your having trouble with. I always break the tension on all the bolts before pulling them.

 

Carl

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Well I found my breaker bar and broke a socket. Went to walmart and bought a new socket...locked myself out of my car so I stayed at walmart for about 4 hours reading the current issue of street rodder. Finally got a ride got my keys, went and got my car, Broke loose the bolts and removed the heads. sheesh!!! The two center bolts definatly showed some signs of extra heat...Odd. Ok I know this had been posted a million times but what is the site for casting numbers? Thanks

 

Jared

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Ok, ToplessZ did you loose all the bolts evenly? Cause if you didnt then you have a good chance that you might have warped the heads! This could also be the reason that it was so hard to get those last 2 bolts out. You should not have broken a socket unless the socket was already in horrible condition to begin with. :? If you did make the mistake of loosening them up one at a time then I would have them checked out to see if they are still flat. Are they cast iron or alluminum?

 

 

What was the purpose of removing the heads?

 

 

Guy

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Well that was fun...so much for my free block. No I didnt take out the bolts one at a time. The socket was a cheapie I guess. I took the heads off one to be able to take the engine off the bed of my friend truck no hoist yet :( and I also wanted to inspect the internals. After countless hours wrapped up in the stupid thing I find that. The rusty cylinders have already been bored to the max. The crank needed turned and there was a chip at the bottom of one of the cylinders. The 76 cc truck heads and block made the funeral precession to the junk yard yesterday. Back to looking for an engine. Denny411 had one for 300 bucks I may have to go that route. Also know of a nice one for a grand but Im kinda broke right now. Thanks for the input yet again guys.

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Guest cbrunberg

Hey Jared.

 

Sorry about your misfortune. Look at the bright side. You've learned a lot on a block that was cheap and junk. Next time you won't be so hasty. Always snug all your bolts before you tighten them. When in doubt use a crosshatch pattern. Take things apart the opposite of how you would put them together. A few extra minutes saves a pile of grief.

 

Good Luck,

 

Carl

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