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Engine mount woes. I need HELP here! Webpage link with all p


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Hi all,

 

Welp I've came along way with my 240. Got the 355 built along with a 700R4 and dropped them between the framerails only to find out theres a problem.

 

The engine mounts where fabbed and welded to the crossmember by the previous owner (was Chevy V8 car before i got it). He had a 400sbc in it and "said" he was using 70's el camino mounts. Well upon dropping my 355 in there I realized that the mounts i had bought didnt line up. With one side bolted to the crossmember mount...the other side missed the hole by about 3/4"-1". The motor mounts holes were to wide a pattern for the crossmember mounts.

 

Since this issue arose, I've been to many parts stores and lastly a mega warehouse where i went through every 3-bolt style Chevy engine mount they had to find what i needed...to no avail. They ALL had the frameside mounting point holes in the same location in relation to the block mounting holes. I even tryed to find a mount that had enough meat around the holes to elongate them just enough to make it work...strike 2.

 

Thats where you guys come in...to clear my cluttered path and save the day. (prays for the answer..)

 

I've made a webpage with pics and some descriptions so there is no confusion on the problem.

 

http://www.jasonshobbyshowcase.homestead.com/240problems.html

 

There are several large pics so it may take a bit to load for you modem folks.

 

Please help a Z nut solve his problem...I'm about to loose it!

 

THANKS!

Jason

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Maybe, just maybe, you're going at this the wrong way. Instead of looking for a new mount on the engine, can you modify the mounting point for the mount on the chassis side? It looked like there was a long bolt on the mount in the close up picture. I know that 1972 chevy truck motor mounts use a thru hole and mount with one bolt from the bottom (into the center of the mount rather than perpendicular to it). Maybe you can cut/grind the ears off of the chassis side mounts, drill a hole through the framehorn for the mounting bolt to come up through, then use spacers between the truck motor mounts and block to get the geometry just right. It looks like you have the room to do this. This is what i had to do to put a 350 in my 81 ZX (the jtr manual didn't quite cover this part...). I wish I had some pics, but if you look at the mounts i'm talkig about, you'll see what needs to be done. Or, if you're good at welding, you can always relocate the chassis side of that mount 1/2 in outward/upwards. That would seem to be the easiest route of all. Anyway, good luck!

 

Bill

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Guest greimann

Hey Jason,

 

I think you are looking for the clamshell style mounts. They are intended to be used with a "biscuit" style rubber isolator. Your setup shows a welded piece where the isolator would normally go, so you may have to go solid mount until you can work out the details.

 

I have pix in the details section of my site (link in signature). I believe mine are from a '78 El Camino and I know my old '72 truck had them. Mind you that mine is a ZX, but it still should be relevant.

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Racin_Jason

 

excellent pictures

your problem is easily solved with a welder, just cut and move the frame mounted engine mount possition, that should take less than 1/2 hour but try this first, measure how far apart the engine mount holes need to be then pull that engine and put a hydrolic jack between the mounts and see if theres enough (give/slack) to spread them apart about 3/8"-1/2", theres no differance in a 350 engine and a 400 engine as far as mounts go so if a sbc was mounted there a sbc should go back in , if there is enough slack /give your mounts or frame might have shifted or be weakly mounted/welded.

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Jeez, thanks for the quick responses. smile.gif

 

I'm not sure the problem has been solved yet,tho. I'll go over each reply one by one.

 

Labrat~ Modifying the existing mounts is an option, although I know nothing about welding nor do i have a welder. Also one key point is the previous owner had a SBC in the car and was using a "mystery mount" that worked. My best outcome is to find this mount and bolt it right up with no hassle. Your idea sounds doable tho and will be on the plate of consideration for plan B.

 

JBSRace1~ Could the Vette BBC mounts be the mount i need?? Do you know if they are shorter, or have the holes located where i need them to be, by chance? I guess I can make one more trip and ask for the mounts to that Vette and compare. hmm..

 

Greimann~ I thought maybe the clamshells were my saving grace also. Like you said, I wouldn't be able to use the frameside part like you used..so I would only be using the engine mount piece. Looking at your pics it sure looks like your mount is atleast as tall as mine are, if not taller...but is the bolt hole offset?? Looks like maybe it is! Hard to tell. Wish i could poke my tape measure through the monitor and measure it :rolleyes: But whats the width of the mount ears? Mine are 2 5/8"...hmm maybe another trip to the parts store. Also...regarding the two sizes of mounts you linked to...I measured and i already have the shorter one, but nice try! smile.gif

 

Grumpy~ I agree with you, as usual, completely. But, i cant weld and dont have access to a welder nor someone competant to use it(short of towing the car toa welder). The spreading idea seems alittle scary. No chance of this permanently altering thigs like toe or alignment? As weak as these Datsuns are, I would imagine it wouold indeed spread. Could this guy have SPREAD the framerails with a jack and dropped the engine in that way?? I can try it and see what happens, if theres no risk or damaging the car. Still seems to me that i just have the wrong mounts because he had a 400 in it...and all he did was pull it and sell me the rolling chassis.

 

I'm still on the hunt for the right mount fellas. I sure hope someone has the answer for the easy fix, since welding will require that i rebuild the suspension JUST to tow the car for a 30 minutes weld job shifty.gif

 

Has to be an easy explaination...I'll kee p watching this post. ALL IDEAS ARE APPRECIATED

THANKS ALL!!!!!!!

Jason

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Guest greimann

I tried a little photopaint photogrametry to illustrate how my mount would look on your car. The picture below has my mount superimposed on your engine. If you had both styles on each side, I think it would work, but it still would be solid mount. Is that what the previous owner had?

 

http://home.earthlink.net/~dvgreimann/largeimages/jasonmount.jpg

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Is it just me or does the mocked picture here loook to be the same offset position as my mount? I was hopin that was the answer but that pic doesnt look even close to lineing up. But THX very much for the effort you put in to see if it would work. I tell ya we have the best members on this forum compared to any ive ever been on...and thas quite a few.

 

ANY OTHER IDEAS FELLAS...i wanna drive my 420HP Z!

rockon.gifrockon.gifrockon.gifrockon.gifrockon.gifrockon.gifrockon.gif

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Guest greimann

It is tough to illustrate, but what I was trying to do was show that the bolt hole on my mount is located where you illustrate you need one. From what I understand in your picture, the right side motor mount is bolted to the car and the left side (shown) shows the hole too high and wide. Imagine if you had two clam shell mounts, the distance between the two mounting holes would be narrower and the bolt in my cludged picture would be close to aligning.

 

I suspect that the previous owner ran a solid mount so that makes your options pretty clear.

 

1. Find some clam shell mounts and run a solid mount (not the best idea in my opinion.)

 

2. Cut away what is in the car and start over. :(

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