cygnusx1 Posted August 8, 2003 Share Posted August 8, 2003 I have just finished, I think, wiring the 83 Turbo setup in my 76Z. When I crank the motor with the key, I get spark and I hear the injectors firing. When I turn the key from run to acc or off, I hear the fuel pump barely piddling. I am not getting any fuel to the rail. I have retained the entire 83ZXT ECCS system including the Fuel Pump Modulator. It is all wired according to the Nissan prints. Problem - I have two Nissan prints: One shows the BLACK wire from the fuel pump and the sheild wire, going to the Fuel Pump Modulator only. The other shows the BLACK wire from the fuel pump and the sheild wire, going to the Fuel Pump Modulator A N D to chassis ground. I wired it the first way. Which way is correct? THANKS!!! When I'm all done I will return to the community, a procedure for wiring the 83Turbo Motor into a 76Z. Gimme Fuel Gimme Fire..... Dave C. http://www.hvmp.com/dc <---photos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted August 8, 2003 Author Share Posted August 8, 2003 The Fuel Pump Control Modulator case needs to be grounded. Once I bolted it up, the pump worked fine! However, the engine still won't fire up. I have spark at the coil--does that mean that the ECU is also firing the injectors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted August 8, 2003 Share Posted August 8, 2003 Hey, Yes, the ecu does fire the injectors, control ignition, and gee, thats about it. What is the cranking amps? Under 9v and the ecu wont fire the car on. Just suggestions, hard to pinpoint exactly over the Internet, hopefully a charged battery and you could be on your way to BOOST. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted August 8, 2003 Author Share Posted August 8, 2003 Well, I have plenty of volts at the battery while cranking. I have it hooked to a charger while I play around with trying to start it. I am sure there is a minor detail I missed or misunderstood. Tomorrow is a new day and I'll give it another go. I am going to check to make sure the injectors are actually firing, that the fuel is actually getting to the injectors, and that the spark is actually getting to the plugs at the right time. I heard the fuel pump, I saw the spark jump from the coil wire to the strut bolt, and the motor cranked fine. Sooo, soon I will be in boost heaven! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted August 8, 2003 Author Share Posted August 8, 2003 Well the fuel pump was running, I had spark, the injectors were firing, and the motor cranked strong but it would not start....I pulled a fuel line off the rail and it was still dry as a bone. So off I go back under the fuel tank I pulled the pump off again. The pump was running fine in the ZX before I pulled it. I wondered what had gone wrong. Since I have dealt with a stuck-open check valve before in my Z, I went right for the check valve again in the ZX Turbo pump. Sure enough it was stuck-closed this time! I swapped the check valve with the one off the Z pump and put it all back in. Crank and crank and WALLAH!!! We have ignition! It idles great and all the HVAC works. The gauges work and the alternator charges. Now I have to clean up the "test -bench" wiring under the dash and proceed with checking all the important engine stuff. Is the throttle response off idle in a ZX Turbo slower than the 280Z N/A motor? It seems like it. Onwards and forwards. Dave C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest szlash280z Posted August 8, 2003 Share Posted August 8, 2003 how did you wire your coil? Mine isn't firing, but I think I have it wired right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted August 10, 2003 Author Share Posted August 10, 2003 1) The black/white wire from the old Z ballast resistor goes to the top spade of the "T" connector on the silver transistor pack of the ZX coil. B/W wire should see battery voltage with the key in run and start -->it is already wired this way in my 76Z so just move B/W wire from the ballast resistor to the top of the "T". 2) The blue wire from the ballast resistor goes to the bottom spade of the "T" connector of the silver transistor pack of the ZX coil. The ballast resistor and all the other wires on the ballast resistor are not needed for the ZX coil to run so tie and tape them up and/or get rid of them. 3) NEXT go under the dash near the steering column and find the other end of that blue wire from step 2. It is on a lone connector that should be hanging out not plugged into anything if you've already removed the old Z FI harness. That blue Z wire now needs to find its way to PIN 5 on the ZX ECU. You can get it to ECU-5 by using one of the pins in the 8-pin connector on the ZX Turbo FI harness under the dash. Use your meter to trace the right pin. It should be this one: X is the one while looking into the ZXT FI harness connector under dash: ________ | o o o o | | o o x o | ______/ PleeZ confirm that x goes to ECU-5 with your meter and then connect the blue wire there. 4) There are two wires that come from the body of the coil transistor. Connect the black/white lead on "+" coil and blue lead on "-" coil. The transistor must be grounded via the bracket and mounting bolts to the chassis. NOTE:I dont think the coil will fire a spark unless the ECU is also fully wired properly. I am working on a procedure for the whole thing! Stay tuned. Let me know how it goes. Dave C. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK! I am NOT alway right as my memory has faded from driving in exhaust filled Z cockpits. Confirm everything. This was for an '83 Turbo motor into a '76Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest szlash280z Posted August 10, 2003 Share Posted August 10, 2003 I had run new wires for the coil, I figured out later that the old coil wiring stays in the car but I still didn't use them yet. All the new coil wiring I made was really long just in case I didn't do it right. so you ran the Blue coil wire to pin 5 on the ECU? I thought that was the wire the Tach got it's signal from so I connected the Y/W wire from the coil's "T" to pin 5... hmmm.... I will go out there and try wiring it your way and see whats up! You just gave me some INSPIRATION man! Thank you so much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest szlash280z Posted August 10, 2003 Share Posted August 10, 2003 hey! how come your tach isn't working in that video?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted August 10, 2003 Author Share Posted August 10, 2003 I haven't gotten to that wire yet. I am going to do that today. I need to find the tach wire at the coil and connect it to the negative post on the coil. I hope that's it. I was a bit unsure about the wire so I left it out for now. Do you know if I need to retain the tach resistor that's under the dash or bypass it? I can try it with the resistor first to be safe. The bottom leg of the "T" spades gets connected to PIN 5 on the ECU. Don't worry too much about wire color just be sure it goes where it should. I used the blue wire in the Z because it was already there. Thanks, Dave C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted August 10, 2003 Author Share Posted August 10, 2003 Well with the blue wire tied to the top spade of the "T" connector on the ZX Turbo coil transistor, the tach does not get its proper signal. My remedy was to grab the resistor under/behind the glove box and take a new wire from one connector of the resistor directly to the negative post of the coil. This left the resistor only "half plugged" into the Z harness socket. I will take a photo shortly and post it. A picture is worth 1000 words. Now the tachometer works fine. Here is that photo I promised... the new black wire goes straight to the negative post on the coil. Just tape up the bullet connector that is exposed in my photo--that is no longer used. Dave C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 YES the engine definately responds slower... man for the first few days driving my car I really thought something was wrong with it... turns out, there were a few issues but also part of it was just me being so used to my built up N/A motor... the throttle response on the turbo, by comparison, is much slower, and you'll find the engine is like a dog below 2500rpm, which is where you're boost should come on. Now that I've worked out most of the bugs, the thing is a blast, I still haven't mastered leaving a light w/o bogging it though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john kosmatka Posted August 16, 2003 Share Posted August 16, 2003 Forgot to congratulate you on your success. Hopefully I will be there soon. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted August 16, 2003 Author Share Posted August 16, 2003 Thanks for the note. I have been driving it with the temporary 2-1/8" flexible exhaust pipe stuffed up the downpipe and connected to the old Z exhaust system with fiberglass tape. I have been restricting myself to about 4psi and about half throttle. So far it feels great! It runs soooooo nice. Just touch the key and it fires right up and idles like an electric motor. Torque is also amazing. The sound of the turbo is, well, MUSIC to my ears. Tuesday I am going to bring it to an exhaust shop to make a custom stainless system. I am going to try to twist their arm to make me a 3" downpipe with 45' bends in it. The rest of the system will be 2-1/2" open all the way back to a Magnaflow 6" round 2-1/2" pass thru muffler. A Summit Racing clamp-on 3" Stainless tip will end it. http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/sum-690051.jpg http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/ss/gifs/title03.jpg muffler#14616 I really hope they can make the downpipe. Getting the turbo outlet flange may be tough. Dave C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted August 16, 2003 Share Posted August 16, 2003 If you are getting a 3" downpipe made, continue on with 3" piping all the way back... 2.5 is too small for anything but a stock turbo engine. (and probably too small there too) 3" pass through muffler, etc. Lots of people here have compared, and its been said over and over again that the 3" exhaust is the single best mod you can make to your turbo car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted August 16, 2003 Share Posted August 16, 2003 sooo much $$$$ though.... what is the cheapest anyone has gotten a full 3" mandrel system on a 240 for? This is definately one of the next things on my list but I can't even find a place that will do it, let alone get a price estimate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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