JoshB 240Z Posted December 5, 2003 Author Share Posted December 5, 2003 I used both the 5/8" support bearing and 5/8" U-Joint. I did use some aluminum tape wrapped on the steering rod as a bushing where my support bearing is located. Before I had the aluminum tape on the steering shaft the shaft would move just enough to give the steering an uneven feel as I turned it lock to lock. For the water pump I went with a mid-80's LTD 5.0L water pump after reading that the impeller was less directional than the standard Mustang pump. I then plumbed a stock 280ZX radiator with long hoses (temporary solution). The engine has idled for fifteen straight minutes and been driven several times and I haven't seen any cooling problems. Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74.5 347Z Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 I ordered the 5/8" and if needed I will manufacture a bushing to take up the slack. I can't finish the brake lines until I cut the steering shaft, and the motor and trans needs to be aligned before I can permantly mount the motor and trans. How does everyone go about making sure the alignment is correct to reduce driveshaft vibrations? I know about the plane of the tail shaft and the pinion of the diff but what about side to side? Sometimes the engine and trans appears not to be straight. What did y'all do to make sure the tail shaft is centered? I did talk to March Performance about a pulley set. At first I was planning to go with the old style set up, only water pump, alt, and crank. The tech told me to go with a '85 Crown Vic water pump. Since then I have decided that I will go with a set up that includes a tensioner with the hopes that the car will have a super charger after a set of heads. I still have a lot to do before I even think about putting an alternator on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 To align the motor in the X-Y plane (looking down on it), I just measured the distance from the frame rails to the center of the crank in front, and from the frame to the center of the output shaft in the rear. My engine is centered so I needed 12.55 inches from frame to center. I used squares and level to assure that I was measuring perpendicular to the frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hat1324 Posted May 7, 2005 Share Posted May 7, 2005 any idea on getting any of these pics? mainly of the mounts??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted May 7, 2005 Share Posted May 7, 2005 I have these pictures on my webpage. http://www.V8-240Z.com once your there click on the morphing Z and follow the directions. The Ford stuff is in the Ford-Motormount folder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hat1324 Posted May 7, 2005 Share Posted May 7, 2005 JESUS thats alot of files.. ill be roaming your server for a WHILE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hat1324 Posted May 7, 2005 Share Posted May 7, 2005 are those solid mounts? no urithane? i bet that thing vibrates like a mofo.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rival5 Posted May 7, 2005 Share Posted May 7, 2005 Dang... Nice collection Dave! Thanks for collecting so many great pictures and for sharing them. They will help me and hopefully others a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hat1324 Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 now I see it, you dont have a design plan for the second piece do you? the mount looks like a chevy mount, but then theres another piece... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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