Subframe Connector Tie-in to Engine Rails

[Guest thinkmonkey]

I couldn't quite work out the grammar for the title, but you get the idea.

 

I was wondering if anyone had any pictures as to how they tied their frame rail connectors into the front subframe. There is a lot of complicated sheet metal that 'melts' off of the front subframe, and I would like the sturdiest connection possible. Thanks.

 

-David

[Guest Want aZ]

Check out Pparaska's website, he has an awesoome write up and detail of subframe connectors, as well as all of the measurements needed for a very clean, sanitary, STRONG install

 

Damon

[Guest thinkmonkey]

Yeah, pete has an awesome car/site. I was looking at his one pic of the mount to the tie-rod end but it was a little unclear. Thanks for the pics, they're very helpful. Did you use 2x3" tubing all the way through? Thanks again. If anyone also has some pics of their installs, all the better.

 

-David

[pparaska]

Thanks for the comps, guys!

 

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/structuralmods.htm

 

Yeah, the pictures aren't too clear. Remember I replaced the engine frame rail too, and cut the T/C rod bracket off the stock rail and welded it to the new rail (2.5"x2.5" tubing). The 2x3 subframe connector is centered below the engine rail, giving an overlap of 1/4" on either side viewed straight down. I tied the subframe connector to the firewall and the engine compartment rail by taking a 1/8" thk piece of steel plate and cutting it into a shape that sits on top of the corner of the subframe connector tubing, butts up to the firewall reinforcement I added, and lays along side (overlaps) the side of the engine rail. I had three one inch holes cut into the plate in the area of the engine rail overlap, so that these areas could be plug welded to the rail.

 

I also added little extensions onto the front end of the subframe connector to extend it to the T/C bracket. I then added a horizontal piece of steel plate that is welded to the aft lower edge of the T/C bracket and extends back to the subframe connector, to have a place to put a jack stand. Then a bunch of tedious little pieces here and there to seal the area off.

[Guest zfan]

I must say Pete's sub frame set up is awsome and I will be doing mine soon. Might have to play copycat or something like that.

 

Mike

[Dave]

I have some pictures of subframe connectors Here.

[pparaska]

 

Copying is a form of flattery -

 

No secrets on my car. But try not to copy - find a better way to do it! I'm not a fabricator by trade, so there's probably simpler and stronger/stiffer ways to do all that. One thing I'd do is go for thicker wall thickness (more like .095 or .125) on the 2x3. The weight is down low, and the increased benefits in stiffness would be a boon. Also, I had some ideas to better tie the rear of the subframe connectors to more members at the rear to add stiffness in torsion and bending of the unibody.