Just bought 74' 260z.. V8 conversion questions LS6?

[Guest Bamm Bamm]

Well i just bought a really nice 74 260z that i'll be swapping a v8 into in the next year here.. the car is completely rust/rot free(thanks god) and I was wondering if anyone is running an LS6? I might be able to get a good deal if not get one for free=).. I want to build the car to run 9 or 10's.. with a t700r4 also.. Any tips and links would be great. I just joined the board a short time ago and want to try and plan everything out before i start anything on it.. I ordered the v8 conversion book from http://www.jagsthatrun.com and was planning on ordering there swap kit unless there is another that is better.. Thanks for any info.. Previous vehicles are a 01 Grand Prix GTP that ran low 13's and a 13 second 73 chevy pickup. I currently drive a 03 sierra which will be my tow vehicle.. Thanks

Dan

[Guest Drewz]

Before you go to the track with it, are you going to be runing sticky tires or slicks?? If so the R200 rear diff and cv's are a must. The rear noncv's are okay until 300/350 horse and traction. My 350/260z has alot of power but no slicks so I am not going cv yet but did do the r200 right away since it is no brainer with no custom parts needed. The auto is also easier on the rearends as well. I would also get a larger rad or get the Z one rebuilt with an extra core like I did with an electric fan (bigger is better in this case for sure).Are you going to keep the heater in it?? Power to weight ratio is the name of the game so scrapping the heater box and core as well as scraping any excessive under coating and sound deadener off will gain some as well. GOing for a monster racer/ strip unit or a powerful daily driver?? Also upgrading the brakes so you can stop is essential. There is a all nissan swap upgrade you can do or go nuts with Ross's monster brakes front and rear. Welcome to the board . If youuse the search option you will find some info on the exact swap you asked about as well. Look it up and print them off so you know what to expect....

[Guest Bamm Bamm]

Thanks for all the great info. I plan on driving it on the street occasionally.. Mostly 1/4mile and I want to run slicks.. I plan on getting the biggest Alum radiator I can fit. probably just go with a big cube SBC that carbed with Alum heads-700r4.. etc Thanks again..

 

oh yeah I definately plan on taking out everything that isn't needed such as the heater core etc. carpeting

[80LS1T]

Are you talking about the LS6 out of the Z06 corvettes? If so I will be the same mounting as an LS1 in a 240/260/280Z. Now no one that I know of has done the LS6 swap but there are a few members that have done the LS1 swap. Look up "Phantom" , "Lone Star" , and "Cyrus" They have done the LS1 swap with a lot of success.

 

If you go LS6 dont buy the JTR conversion kit because that if for old small block chevy's. It wont work with the GEN III stuff because of the different mounting locations on the engine.

 

Oh and how are you going to get a LS6 Engine for free? Those engines are worth some serious $$$$dough$$$$!

 

Guy

[spotfitz]

Welcome to the board.

The JTR swap kit will not help much for the LS6 or any LS series motor for that matter. That series uses another type of motor mount in a totally different location. With the auto, the speedo cable should work. Their radiator is somewhat on the marginal side for cooling. The Griffin radiator would be a better way to go and pushes the limits of required size. With using this radiator you won't need their radiator supports(if you want their recommended radiator, I have one that I'll let go pretty cheap, plus shipping). Have Griffin fab some tabs similiar to stock and use some rubber between the radiator and support. Going carb is a good thing to start with, getting the car on the road sooner. Dragging a project out will always make you wonder what your putting yourself through and to what extent.

Make a plan and stick to it, as you've stated. That is about the only way you will ever accomplish your goals.

All these statements are based on the assumption that JTR hasn't actually came out with an LS series swap manual yet. I haven't checked their site in some time now.

[Guest Bamm Bamm]

Thanks for the all the info.. Looks like I won't be using the LS6 but i'm still going to try and get it. It needs a rebuild though. I have a few friends that work at Chevy's dealerships=)

looks like I'll be sticking with a carb I was looking into the ls1 stuff and man that's just way to much to mess with and don't feel like screwing with a computer too much on this car.. That's one of the reason I ditched my 01 grand prix GTP.. I couldn't program the pcm myself and with all my mods I wasn't reaching full potential..

 

spotfitz- is that Griffin radiator already setup for a Z?

What do they go for brand new? I have a buddy that races dragster's and is going to see if we can work someone with one of his sponsors to get me a free one though possibly..

[Guest benjlv]

I dont think youll be able to run a R200 rear end...i think the're only good for 500 ft/lbs...and a 9 or 10sec car hooking hard would be a problem.

 

there are several guys who have put for 9inch rears in their cars. that with a roll cag (required obviously for the time) and probably subframe connectors and struct braces. Im no expert though...i think going with a carbed setup would be easier for what youre looking for. A LT1 with a blower like darius's car would be nice.

 

I say do some searching in the forums to figure out what the limits of the structure of the car are and what the best way to get around them are...also looking at some other people's setups will hatch some ideas.

 

heres a low 9 sec 280z

http://www.dragracingreview.com/COTW/cotw0922.htm

[Guest Drewz]

Actually there are a couple of cars here running high tens with the 200 or 230 rear diffs. The car is light so the stresses are less than that of launching a big block cutlass or vette. The 230 is a better diff but takes more work than the 200 install I think. Have you been in a 11 or 10 second car for a ride. A 9 or 10 second car is alot of work and a cage would be a plan as well. I think a Z capable of anything better than a 12 seconds in street form is awesome enough but to go faster has its give and takes for reliability, hooking up, launching straight, and stopping quickly. It is a balancing act IMO...

[Guest Bamm Bamm]

thanks for all thew replys

I've ridden in 10-11seconds car but never a 9second one=)

 

I think I'll probably go with a R200 for now I'm still in the planning stages>< I still need to remove the stock Z motor etc..

[Phantom]

If you should decide to go ahead with the LS6 install contact John@Johnscars.com. He has the motor mounts for the LS1 which is the same as the LS6 block. He already has transmission mounts for the T56 and is currently developing the mounts for the 4L60E. He has also worked out the headers, exhaust, fuel system, gauges, etc using my '77 280Z as the prototype. My 2,830 lb car has run a 13.2 @ 108 but will easily get down to around 12.4 & 114 once I can get my 60' down from 2.2 seconds. It is currently generating 311 HP & 326 lb-ft of torque at the rar wheels. Lone Star 1's is up around 320 HP. With the header and exhaust modifications currently going on with my car I expect to get somewhere north of 320 HP too. The LS6 should give you at least 360-365 RWHP. My LSD R200 easily handles the LS1 power and the old half-shaft universals did too but they're being upgraded to the Spicer 'Brute Force' u-joints for some added reserve.