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Rear Toe Problems?


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I was working with a friend trying to resolve a rear toe out problem on his ITS 240Z. Using offest aluminum bushings we could only get the left rear to 0 toe at max inboard offset. In frustration we pulled the left rear strut/hub assembly and separated the control arm from the strut. After measuring and checking we found that the spindle pin holes in the strut we not drilled perpendicular to the hub centerline. The holes themsleves were on-line and on center so it doesn't appear the strut was damaged.

 

This got us thinking, so we dug out a bunch of other struts we had laying around. Of the 5 others we measured, we found one that was also drilled off by just a little bit (not as much as the problem part).

 

Seems that on some days in the 1970s, Hiro at the machine shop back in Japan didn't get the struts in the jig correctly before pushing the button! Probably too much Sake the night before. I've always been skeptical of the value of adjustable rear control arms but this might make me change my mind - if I didn't already have a few extra struts laying around.

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While you're inspecting struts for ITS useage be sure to take a close look at the bolt holes for the parking brake bracket. Been known to grow a crack out of them and fail the strut. Some IT guys leave the parking brake and hardware off, including the bracket on the strut, which means you got an open fastener hole in a stressed area versus a filled hole (bad, right Dan Baldwin?). If you leave the bracket off put the little bolts back in.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Anonymous

I know someone who discovered that the hard way and sure could've used your advice a few weeks ago. He had exactly the same problem with rear toe, except it was with the right-rear strut.

How did you solve the problem?

 

(.)(.) Z-Cup

(Track Princess)

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