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540hp 383 in this month's Car Craft


Guest the_dj

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1fastz

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Member # 1715

 

posted May 26, 2002 02:10 PM

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ROFL grumpy

 

 

"its a grenade with the pin half way out.. cheap parts at that power level dont live long.. not to mention they left a TON of stuff out on the cost exspect to paya bout 5800 for a motor like the one they built" very true! and yes most magazine article leave out or just plain lie about the true costs, an example I find laughable is the magazine articles that show 600plus hp small blocks useing nitrous with stock cranks, rods, and cast pistons, true it can be done for 1 or 2 runs on a dyno but long term that engines bound to blow

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Guest 1fastz

just a note dont atempt to make air bleed changes unles you are sure of what you are doing..

 

they are permanent changes unles you have a carb with screw in aibleeds.

 

you have to use a drill to enlarge them if its needed.. and if you need smaller that is a pain in the ass as you have to epoxie them shut then slowly dril up to the size you need.

 

they will realy pull extra power out of a engine but if you go the wrong way your screwed ..

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You sound like Dave Emanuel with that advice :D .

I doubt I'd try it before I tried a bunch of other things first. One tip I got off of the Chevytalk board was to solder them shut and drill. A bit easier and softer than epoxy. Both would save the carb body though.

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Guest Anonymous
Originally posted by 1fastz:

2. simply jetted the carb until they had a good power reading and said OH ok its tuned.. Guess what you need to tune air bleeds in a carb to get the maximum out of it not just jets.

Why do you think you can pick up 30 or more horses by swittching to a good aftermarked carb like a bary grant etc vs a stock holley even when the cfm is the same between the two .

 

Air bleeds? I confess my ignortance. Could we get a little more info on these and how to adjust /tune the carb using these? Thanks

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