DatsunBoy77 Posted September 20, 2003 Share Posted September 20, 2003 Ok, i am getting frustrated. Is it normal for the whole distributor to positivly charged? When i pull it out of the car and just hook up only the wire going from the coil to it i can touch the distributor anywhere and get 12V? As soon as it touches the block it loses all power. I am sure now it has nothing to to with my wiring harness, as i dont even have it hooked up to the distributor. Can anyone verify if this is right or if the distibutor has some kind of short or something. Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jersey Posted September 21, 2003 Share Posted September 21, 2003 What wire are you talking about? There's the plug that has 4 wires in it from the dizzy that runs back to the ECCS. There's also a single black wire that's connected to the base of the dizzy by way of a female spade. That black runs to a capacitor and on the other side of that cap is a black/white that runs into the harness and tied into ignition power. All the cap does, to my understanding, is bleed off any voltage at the distributor so the signal is clean and absolute. I'm not sure of any wire that runs directly from the distibutor back to the coil, uness your talking about the coil wire itself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DatsunBoy77 Posted September 21, 2003 Author Share Posted September 21, 2003 The black wire is what i am talking about. The capacitor went bad, i couldnt get any power going through it. Reomved it and now i have power running all the way through the distributor, but seems to ground out as soon as the distributor touches the block. Maybe the capacitor is needed. I dunno. It doesnt seem right that the distributor would just ground out like that all the sudden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jersey Posted September 21, 2003 Share Posted September 21, 2003 Your not suppose to get power through it. That's what the CAP is for. That black is attached to the housing of the distributor and should show ground when the dizzy is bolted down. Dont worry to much about the gasket, just make sure it doesn't leak. Think about it - when you put the 2 bolts down through the dizzy to bolt it down to the block, it's going to be grounded. Now when you hook it to the CAP, it may see a small amount of bleed voltage after you turn the key on but i wouldn't think much if the CAP is doing its job. I'll check on mine when i get a chance today. I emailed a schematic to one of the guys on here (i think Moby?) and i think he has it posted on the web somewhere. I'll try to find it and post it here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jersey Posted September 21, 2003 Share Posted September 21, 2003 Sorry Moby...it was Mudge. Here ya go.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DatsunBoy77 Posted September 21, 2003 Author Share Posted September 21, 2003 i have the fsm for that year and everything matches. It is just as soon as the distributor touches the block i loose voltage at the coil. Down to 9 volts on + and almost none on -. With the capacitor in place i get 12v on both sides but nothing after the capacitor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jersey Posted September 21, 2003 Share Posted September 21, 2003 I'm trying to follow you but i'm having a tough time. Dont worry about the distributor right now. Take the black wire off of the bottom of the dizzy and ground it. What does the voltage read at the + side of the coil? With the black wire disconnected and hanging, what does the voltage read at the + side of the coil now? When you say "almost none on - ", do you mean there's almost no voltage on the negitive side of the coil? When you say "With the capacitor in place i get 12v on both sides but nothing after the capacitor", both sides of what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DatsunBoy77 Posted September 21, 2003 Author Share Posted September 21, 2003 I get the same results when just grounding the wire as i do the distributor. 9v at positive, and near 0v (like .03) at the negative. With the wire hanging I get 12v on + and -. With the capacitor in place i get the same result as the wire just hanging because i cant get any power going throguh it, that is why i get 12v on the + & - of the coil (aka "both sides"). Does this seem right? -ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jersey Posted September 21, 2003 Share Posted September 21, 2003 If you have the FSM, it tells you exactly how the system works and how to test it. A yellow comes from the ECCS which goes to the power transistor. The power transistor amplifies this signal and then continues to the negitive side of the coil on a blue wire. The CAS controls this yellow wire which, after the transistor, connects and disconnects the coils primary winding which in turn, creates major current through the secondary winding, creating a spark. What the the voltage reading on the yellow wire, or after the transistor (blue wire), depends on the position of the CAS. Now if the CAS is not plugged into the 4 plug harness while testing, it may just show 12v on the blue (neg side of coil), but that's just a guess. The black/white that runs to the power transistor and to the + side of the coil should have near 12v on it with the key in the ON position (depending on how your battery's condition is) Don't worry to much about the CAP because it will run without it. And BTW, what did you use for a CAP? I see in your other post that you didnt have one? I would leave it disconnected for now becuase it sounds like your shorting your blk/wht (12v) to ground when you connect the ground side of it, knocking it down to 9v. Not much more to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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