Guest Mr. Big Business Posted September 23, 2003 Share Posted September 23, 2003 I'm running a T56 with hydraulic throwout bearing. Do I need to bleed the master cylinder (tilton) like I did my brake master? When I try to bleed it at the slave (it has a bleeder) I keep getting nothing but air, and doesn't seem to be sucking the fluid out of the master - it just builds up a vacuum inside the clutch hose. To clarify, I'll go through my bleeding process. 1) open 2) push (and hold) in clutch - hear air come out bleeder. 2) close bleeder 3) release clutch 4) open bleeder - At this point, I can hear air being sucked back into the system, via the bleeder, which seems wrong 5) repeat from step 1. Suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 23, 2003 Share Posted September 23, 2003 If the pedal is not adjusted correctly the master won't open the little hole to the reservoir, meaning that you won't cycle the fluid through. You have to have a little free play before you start to push the pedal. There's one idea for you. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted September 23, 2003 Share Posted September 23, 2003 If you have a bleeder on the master, bleed it first, then the slave. This is a two person operation. 1. Depress & hold clutch pedal. 2. Open bleeder slightly, allowing air/fluid to escape. 3. Close bleeder before air/fluid stops flowing. This keeps any air from being sucked back into the system. 4. Release clutch pedal & return to #1. Repeat until no air flows from the bleeder, only fluid with no bubbles. Keep plenty of fluid in the master reservoir. If you suck it dry, you introduce more air into the system and get to start over. Bleed the master thoroughly, then do the slave. Be patient, bleeding a clutch always takes longer than doing brakes. You may have to do it several times. Remember brake fluid can damage paint. Good luck, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 23, 2003 Share Posted September 23, 2003 I just read this again, and the fact that you have vacuum in the master when you open the bleeder leads me to believe that you don't have any free play in the pedal. I said that badly last time, so let me rephrase: You want some free play in the rod so that you have 1/8" or 3/16" before the pin actually starts to push the master. I actually had a problem where I was at the track and my clutch started slipping. Turns out I didn't have enough free play and the fluid expanded from heat, very slightly engaging the master all the time. Turned the rod in, problem solved. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mr. Big Business Posted September 23, 2003 Share Posted September 23, 2003 Thanks Jon, I'll take a look at that rod. I can't honestly say whether I have free play or not, but that seems like a reasonable explanation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mr. Big Business Posted September 24, 2003 Share Posted September 24, 2003 success! I had no slack in my connection. Once I backed it off a bit, it bled just fine. I now have a clutch! Now if I can just get my engine running, I might just be able to drive this thing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted September 24, 2003 Share Posted September 24, 2003 Glad you got it fixed. Jon nailed that right away. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 24, 2003 Share Posted September 24, 2003 I'll never forget that clutch adjustment again. I just remember how frustrated I was at the track that day. I was glad someone was there with enough knowledge to help me out, and I'm happy that I was able to pass it along. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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