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Motor in...turn the key...and...


JB_BA

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Nothing. Zilch. Zero...

compression check results in ZERO compression. The block I bought from a guy here in town who said "it's a good motor, and it was running when I took it out..." obviously needed a quick $400...

so for all that work, some blood, and too many trips to the parts store I have absolutly nothing to show for it except for some black stuff under my finger nails and an empty wallet.

 

Anyone want to purchase:

Rolling 1972 240z (with wide body kit, gnose and whale tail)

Dart Iron Eagle 200cc Heads

Holley 750 Double Pumper Carb

Edlebrock Air Gap Intake Manifold

Northern aluminum radiator

Comp Cam (model XE274) with lifters (never actually cranked)

My starter, water pump, pulleys, belt, etc...

Saginaw 4 speed manual tranny

R200 w/ 3.75 gears

......

Basically everything you need to build a 350 equipped 240z minus the block...

 

I purchased the car for $2000 AND my 280zx. The 240 I'm selling and the 280 can both be viewed at http://www.angelfire.com/pro/jbszs

and the 240 can also be viewed at http://www.angelfire.com/pro/rkr/240.html

 

I'm looking to get $1,500 for this, as I still have to pay off the loan, which has about $1,400 left on it. I know I should've posted this in the Buy/Sale/Trade forum, but I did start out ranting, and I'm not really in the mood to post twice. I don't think I'll go any lower than $1,500 I can't afford to...I need a vehicle, and I've got to pay off a loan AND repay some loans for parts for this thing...

I'm out of a perfectly good 280zx, $400, and have lots of people to repay.

 

The car is located in Americus, GA...drop me a line @ phstightend@hotmail.com or rkracer240@yahoo.com

 

I'm pissed, I'm going to bed,

JB

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Before you get too carried away....make sure that your cam timing is right. Even a completely wanked bottom end will produce compression, but if your valves are open at the wrong time, then that will give you no compression. Trouble shoot it a bit before you throw in the towel.

Otherwise, I might buy it from you....depending on the price to ship. I've got a complete SBC just waiting for a donor.

 

Get the #1 piston to TDC and check to see if your valves are closed., then turn the engine and check each set of valves (on firing order) to see if that might be your problem. Don't give up in haste.

Tim

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Thanks Tim. I'll try it. I guess I probably did get carried away, but if it turns out that the block is shot, I'll definatly have to sell the car I'm afraid. I've already taken off the intake/carb, the valve covers, roller rockers, and unbolted the headers...I guess I just made some more work for tomorrow...

ahhhhh...

I know what I'm doing this weekend...and I don't think it's going to involve a car... :roll:

I've still got a day to work before the weekend though...so...maybe I'll find out the block is OK...man I hope so...

 

JB

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I can't recall ever seeing zero compression. As these guys are recommending, go back and check engine internals. If you have an engine savvy friend handy, but him a 6 pack and make him get it fired up for you.

 

I would be very pessimistic if you had really poor compression which was very inconsistent between cylinders. Bet zero's all the way around sounds like something other than a bad block.

 

I'm in Hunstville, and if I were any closer I'd try and get over there. But my weekend is booked. But I have a feeling you'll make fire this weekend. Good luck.

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Don't give in bud..

these old gals can play hard to get at times...

I agree something else is wrong.

at worst even if you're right put the feelers out and get an old short block to throw in it, if you start asking local car guys you'll find you can get them for practically nothing, sometimes even free.

Perry

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I'll get back with you guys about the car this evening after I check the cam timing and the valve train out. I'm thinking that the timing may have been advanced 180 degrees...hopefully I can get it running. If not, I'll get back with everyone that e-mailed me.

 

Thanks,

JB

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Guest SLICK RICK

Well if you want to sell it..........let me know.

 

Pull out the number one plug. put your finger on the hole, have someone bump it over, wait for compression, drop in dist. pull off cap make sure rotor is pointing at number one wire, (also make sure dist. turning).

 

If it is getting fuel and the timing is close (and fires) (and nothing is broke internal)

it does not have a choice but to start.

 

But if you give up, you got mail and I got cash (and a trailer).

 

Slick Rick :wink:

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