Wagz Posted October 12, 2003 Share Posted October 12, 2003 Finally cut the top off the 240 and set the Velo Rossa front end on the Z to see how it looks: Starting to take shape: I started cutting the wheel well openings per the instructions in the VR install manual and rembered a post I think Dan made regarding finishing the tabs: Dan: I remember you posting (I think) that when you cut your opening for your YZ flares you didn't weld the tabs, but used aluminum tape. Am I dreaming that? If you did do that, what was the advantage/disadvantage vs. welding all of the tabs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mikey_clark Posted November 30, 2003 Share Posted November 30, 2003 Wagz, did you ever get an answer to this. I'll be doing this soon. I'll be getting my kit in a couple of weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilRufusKay Posted November 30, 2003 Share Posted November 30, 2003 If you search for posts by Dan Juday you will find that he did use a HVAC type of tape to secure the tabs. I think he also used sheet metal screws first. The post is titled baby comes home....I think Rufus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mikey_clark Posted November 30, 2003 Share Posted November 30, 2003 I couldn't find it in a search, but I found he has a short description of the proccess in his picture gallery from his signature line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted November 30, 2003 Share Posted November 30, 2003 Sorry guys, I missed this thread when it first came up. Marc e-mailed me when I didn't respond and I filled him in. Just for the record, and because of his great picture that illustrates the cutting and bending part very well, I will bring the rest of you up to speed. If you don't have a welder or the skills, and don't want to ignite the inside of your fender and burn up your wiring harness, this is an idiot proof alternative. Fire was a real concern for me. My car had it's innerds treated to a Ziebold process. This is what probably saved my car from the dreaded cancer. Basicly they drill a bunch of holes in the unibody, door jams and other hidden areas, insert a wand and spray a greasy black undercoating inside. Then they plug the holes with little plastic plugs. I still had a few small rust spots and while welding one of them up the stuff lit off. Kind of scary wondering how I was going to put out a fire inside my frame rail. Fortunately, or unfortunately depending on how you look at it, there wasn't much in there, hence the rust, and it burned itself out pretty quickly. My rear fenders are filled with that stuff though and I didn't want to burn the car to the ground. I got this method from Rory Bateman, the Tomahawk kit designer/builder. After you have fileted the fenders so they look like Marc's picture you get out your drill/driver and a box of #10 self drilling, self tapping sheetmetal screws. Screw each wheelhouse tab to the outer fender with two screws. When you have it all secured the fender is sealed with a special HVAC duct tape that is designed to seal out water and air and is self-healing. It has an aluminum backing with a thick, very sticky cauck type adhesive. It can be purchaced at air conditioning supply houses under various trade names like Alumigrip and StickyTape. I use this stuff all the time and trust me, it is well up to the task. We use this to seal exposed duct under pressure and it does not fail. It is not cheap, expect about $30 a roll. One roll will work if you don't over lap too much. Overlapping is not requied. Good luck guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilRufusKay Posted November 30, 2003 Share Posted November 30, 2003 Hey I was pretty close Huh? Who says the mind weakens with age......who does say that anyway.......Hmmmmm???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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