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VR Progress & question for Dan Juday


Wagz

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Finally cut the top off the 240 and set the Velo Rossa front end on the Z to see how it looks:

 

Starting to take shape:

album_pic.php?pic_id=2018

 

I started cutting the wheel well openings per the instructions in the VR install manual and rembered a post I think Dan made regarding finishing the tabs:

 

Dan: I remember you posting (I think) that when you cut your opening for your YZ flares you didn't weld the tabs, but used aluminum tape. Am I dreaming that? If you did do that, what was the advantage/disadvantage vs. welding all of the tabs?

 

album_pic.php?pic_id=2019

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  • 1 month later...

Sorry guys,

I missed this thread when it first came up. Marc e-mailed me when I didn't respond and I filled him in. Just for the record, and because of his great picture that illustrates the cutting and bending part very well, I will bring the rest of you up to speed.

 

If you don't have a welder or the skills, and don't want to ignite the inside of your fender and burn up your wiring harness, this is an idiot proof alternative.

 

Fire was a real concern for me. My car had it's innerds treated to a Ziebold process. This is what probably saved my car from the dreaded cancer. Basicly they drill a bunch of holes in the unibody, door jams and other hidden areas, insert a wand and spray a greasy black undercoating inside. Then they plug the holes with little plastic plugs.

 

I still had a few small rust spots and while welding one of them up the stuff lit off. Kind of scary wondering how I was going to put out a fire inside my frame rail. Fortunately, or unfortunately depending on how you look at it, there wasn't much in there, hence the rust, and it burned itself out pretty quickly.

 

My rear fenders are filled with that stuff though and I didn't want to burn the car to the ground.

 

I got this method from Rory Bateman, the Tomahawk kit designer/builder. After you have fileted the fenders so they look like Marc's picture you get out your drill/driver and a box of #10 self drilling, self tapping sheetmetal screws. Screw each wheelhouse tab to the outer fender with two screws. When you have it all secured the fender is sealed with a special HVAC duct tape that is designed to seal out water and air and is self-healing. It has an aluminum backing with a thick, very sticky cauck type adhesive. It can be purchaced at air conditioning supply houses under various trade names like Alumigrip and StickyTape. I use this stuff all the time and trust me, it is well up to the task. We use this to seal exposed duct under pressure and it does not fail. It is not cheap, expect about $30 a roll. One roll will work if you don't over lap too much. Overlapping is not requied.

 

Good luck guys!

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