strut installation help

[zero]

I have done a search and only got more confused so here we go.

 

I have a 240z that bounces all over the road, so I am in need of new struts. I decided that I would upgrade and save a bit of money by buying the tokiko struts from modern motorsports. I would like to install them myself, but got confused when i did a search and read about people having trouble removing gland nuts. To the best of my understanding, the gland nut is on the top of the strut, and I do not know why it would have to be removed. I thought the strut would be sold as an assembly instead of a cartridge. Please help me to understand the strut assembly and installation. Thank you.

[Tim240z]

The replacement will be an insert. You will need to remove the top nut that holds the spring 'hat' in place (connects to the threaded section of the strut shaft). (use a spring compressor).

Then, to remove the old insert, you will need to remove the gland nut. Sometimes they are a PITA, sometimes not. I haven't had the problem yet...just used a plumbing wrench on the hex.

Tim

[Drax240z]

Some can be a real bear... Heat cycling and penetrating oil is good, so make sure you have a torch and a can of something better than WD-40 handy. A big @$$ pipe wrench is a necessity as well.

[zero]

just to clear up my mental picture, could someone post a picture of just the strut cartridge. thanks

[Tim240z]

This one is not for a Z car, but it is the same idea:

 

 

 

 

Or here is an article on strut shortening by Jeremy (Jeromio on this site):

 

http://240z.jeromio.com/frontsusp2.html

 

Tim

[zero]

I wouldnt have to shorten the strut housing for the tokiko struts would I. also, how much lower is practical with the stock housing length.lastly, am i correct in my assumption that the small metal length of tubing at the bottom of jeremy's page was to let the rabbit insert fit adequately in the housing, because it was too short. Thanks

[jeromio]

zero:

I wouldnt have to shorten the strut housing for the tokiko struts would I.

Nope. Sectioning (shortening) is only necessary if you plan to lower the car more than an inch and a half or so.

zero:

also, how much lower is practical with the stock housing length.

I'd say anywhere from 1 to 2 inches. Keep in mind that with "stock" 30 year old springs, your car is not riding at it's original height. So, if you upgrade springs, you'll want shorter ones.

zero:

lastly, am i correct in my assumption that the small metal length of tubing at the bottom of jeremy's page was to let the rabbit insert fit adequately in the housing, because it was too short.

Yep. I didn't want to section too much - just being a girl I suppose.

 

As to your cartridge replacement job, be prepared. It's no small job. You must remove the whole strut assembly. As Tim said, get the spring compressors and a big pipe wrench. New carts come with new gland nuts, so no worries about tearing up the old ones. The instructions with the new cartridges should tell you about the oil to put in the tube along with the cart (for heat dissipation). I put too much in mine and it leaked out and made a mess.

 

Also, be very careful with the spring top isolators. I had one with an abused D hole that was fairly rounded out - ended up causing my cart to get stripped out. I was able to weld back the flat before replacing with a new cart, but I sure hated having to buy another new one. If yours are loose, you'll want to either get new ones or try and have yours repaired.