Guest Your Car is Slow Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 Ok...so im about to begin installing tubing to stiffen up the front end and engine bay of the car to support the Turbo LT1 project. I had a question about the tube going from the strut tower to the framerail. Ive seen people install them bent, ive seen them install them to the front frame mount, and ive seen them not installed at all. Id like however to "massage" the fenderwell where the dotted lines are drawn in the pic to allow an unbent tube support to be welded in on each side up to the strut tower. I am only running skinnies up front (3.5" rims) so tire clearance isnt an issue. In fact the only thing I noticed that would be close is the stock spring. Anyone ever tried this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
innerware Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 I can't speak from any experience but it looks like it would kick ass. Good luck, Kyle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preith Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 I ended up having to bend mine. It seemed like the easier thing to do than try and bend the fenderwell in. I concluded that with a 1 1/2" tubing, instead of the 1 3/4" I was using, you probably could get by with a straight piece with some very minor fender tweaking. The pic I included isn't the best, but the only one I could get in short order. I'll be road racing mine, so I tied this together with the swaybar mounts which were run through the frame rail as well. You can kinda see it in the pic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David K Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 Could cut the fenderwall to allow the tube to be straight, and weld the tube to the sheet metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BigWhyteDude Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 hey preith are those wheels pansport's (SP) you got on your car?? Andrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DISCUS Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 It might be wise to allow for wiring to be re-routed up higher before the bend and measurements are finalised. I chose to route mine away from header heat after melting some wires in the stock position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preith Posted December 6, 2003 Share Posted December 6, 2003 hey preith are those wheels pansport's (SP) you got on your car?? I realize this is getting off the subject, but I'll answer anyways. Yep, I forget the model, but they're your typical run of the mill Panasports, 15x7's. Not the "racing only" lightweights though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Synlubes Posted December 6, 2003 Share Posted December 6, 2003 preith, Very nice looking engine compartment. Please allow us to see your other pics that you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preith Posted December 6, 2003 Share Posted December 6, 2003 Here's a link to my gallery on zdriver.com. It's a little further along, than in the pics, but not by much. Thanks for all the compliments. It looks better in the pics than in person. But not too shabby for my first paint job. http://zdriver.com/gallery/showgallery.php?ppuser=3088&cat=500&thumb=1 Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Synlubes Posted December 7, 2003 Share Posted December 7, 2003 Thanks for the link Phil. 2 ?`s for you. Are your rear control arms from Arizona ? Would you be so kind and share with us your (trick) handy custom inside door hatch set up. It looks just like the solution I had not thought of, yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preith Posted December 7, 2003 Share Posted December 7, 2003 Yes the rear control arms are Dave's, as well as the front. I'm very happy with them. I feel the rears are the best ones I've seen yet. He's revised them with triangulation and the rod end sharing the swaybar link is adjustable. My trick door handles are actually the arms off of household plumbing valves, ha! I just welded them to the arm on the latch which the interior handles originally terminated to. I also cut off the locking assembly entirely. They're kind of a pain to reach, but they'll only be used when the windows are in during transport on the trailer. I wish I had a digital camera. This would be much simpler! Any pics of your car, links? Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Synlubes Posted December 7, 2003 Share Posted December 7, 2003 So what class/series are you preparing your car for? What have you done with your engine? What other trick stuff have you done that you care to share? Again, I like your door latch set up. I`m tring to come up with something simular, but the window glass will stay in. Mine is a "street legal" track car with lots of improvements still needed. There is a link in my sig for some pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc's240z Posted December 7, 2003 Share Posted December 7, 2003 Phil, I would like to compare notes with you on the set up of your car. enclosed is a link to the photos of my cage prior to going to the blast shop for that reference support to the strut tower. Link: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=7456&size=big&password=&sort=7&thecat=500 My photos are spread out all over my gallery in no particular order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preith Posted December 7, 2003 Share Posted December 7, 2003 So what class/series are you preparing your car for? What have you done with your engine? What other trick stuff have you done that you care to share? I plan on solo1 racing the car for at least a year to two, and then Vintage, but I'm not sure how eligible it will be, L28, DIS, 4 wheel discs, etc. I guess I'm a little paranoid. After seeing a 924/944 with a carbon fiber intake at the VSCDA (BRIC) race, maybe I shouldn't be. I think as long as I stay away from SVRA I should be ok. The engine is an L28 w/L24 rods, .040 over, JE pistons approx. 13:1 comp., schneider cam .560/300, and Mikuni 44's on a TWM manifold. N42 head with some valve unshrouding and portch matching. I have yet to dyno it...hoping for somewhere close 300. Also on the car is a Tilton 7 1/4" dual disc. This pretty much sealed it's fate as a race car. No clutch slipping! For anyone else who want's to do this, good luck! Tilton stopped making the flywheel in '95, and the rest is another big discussion. We could start up another thread on this if anyone's interested? I'm really having a hard time thinking of any other "trick" stuff. When I look at the car, I think of it as mostly the same as what everyone else has done already. I'm just the copycat. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preith Posted December 7, 2003 Share Posted December 7, 2003 Phil, I would like to compare notes with you on the set up of your car. enclosed is a link to the photos of my cage prior to going to the blast shop for that reference support to the strut tower. If your looking for suspension setup, I can't help you there. I have yet to drive the car. Any specs I have are IT and A-prepared autocross setups which other's have used. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc's240z Posted December 7, 2003 Share Posted December 7, 2003 Thanks Phil, I am building a Vintage Race Car and enjoyed looking at your photos. There are some definite similarities in our cage designs. I am not looking for setup specs, more of an open discussion of how's and why's. For instance I noticed your accusump is lying on the floor under/in front of the passenger seat. Could you flip me a few photos of that installation and are you running a 2 or 3-quart accusump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preith Posted December 7, 2003 Share Posted December 7, 2003 Man, I have got to get a digital camera! The Accusump is a 2 qt. unit. As far as installation, I just bolted it through the floor using the provided clamps, with backing plates the other side. It has not been plumbed up yet. It was a bit tight with space. I used a rather tight elbow (male/female 1/2" pipe) to make it work. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc's240z Posted December 7, 2003 Share Posted December 7, 2003 thank phil, I am running a three quart, was wondering how you got that in there... Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc's240z Posted December 7, 2003 Share Posted December 7, 2003 Yeah Phil, you need a digital camera!! guess you need to ask Santa..lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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