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HybridZ

finally getting started!


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

well guys for the past week i had my nose buried in the JTR manual :wink: I think I'm ready to start. My parents seem to be less excited about all this... I'm going to see a rolling chassis on saturday. The guy said its an early 70. No engine or tranny, not even sure if its a 240Z or 260Z.

Ok stupid question #1: how do i tell the dif. between the two? They look totally the same to me! My budget took a little unexpected beating from all the books that I got, but it was definitly worth it! I know I'll need help/advice later on from you guys.... everyone I talk to seems to think I am crazy to be doing this.... everyone except the people here ;p

ok and last of all: Whats the absolute WORST place to have rust? and what are the incignificant areas that can be replaced easy?

-i.d.

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Guest Anonymous

Before you go buying a Z ...get a title and that will tell you the year of manufacture. Rust can be prevelant in the floor boards and in the area beneath the spare tire. Others can add their list spots but you will have to get in every nook and cranny and inspects. Use a screw driver to inspect, if the owner objects MOVE on becuz u cant poke holes in solid sheet metal.

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Q #1... I would say check the date of production the 260 was only made in late 1973 and 1974(please correct me if I am wrong bonk.gif ) and the 240 late 1969 to late 1973(same thing bonk.gif ), but you would think there would be and emblem on the car somewhere wouldnt you? Or is it in that bad of shape?

 

Q #2.... I would say the frame rails and especially under the floor boards infront of the seats.

 

That's my $.02 2thumbs.gif and good luck with your conversion!!! rockon.gif

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Do yourself a favour and take someone along with you who has no stake in the purchase and LISTEN to their advice. Most times people (myself included) make purchase with their heart, not their head. If it's not what you want....Don't Buy It.....you will regret it in the end, especially if you're going to spend long hours and hard earned cash on a conversion. Get something that you won't have to chase with endless $$$$ just to get it to a decent starting point.

my 3c worth.

Tim

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Originally posted by Igor D.:

Ok stupid question #1: how do i tell the dif. between the two? ]

Like the others said, this one's a 240 if it's a 1970 model. 240's in the US were produced from 1969-1973. 260's were produced ONLY in 1974 in the states. The easiest way to tell what you're looking at is to look at the stamped metal plates on the driver's side door jamb and in the engine compartment.

 

ok and last of all: Whats the absolute WORST place to have rust? and what are the insignificant areas that can be replaced easy?

Here, I beg to differ with my colleagues. Although the floorpan is the most common area to see rusted out in these cars, it's so easy to fix that I don't think it's the worst place to see it. Ditto with the rear quarterpanels - they're cosmetic.

 

They're right about the frame rails, especially underneath the battery. Plan on spending $750-1000 to get new frame rails welded in, if you can't do the work yourself.

 

I'm also discouraged when I see the box sections underneath the doors rusted out. Peel back the vinyl covering the doorsills and take a look. In many cars, this section will be almost completely rusted through, reducing the strength of the body considerably. Similarly, take a look at the shock towers, and make sure they're sturdy and rust-free.

 

Body rust can be ugly, but the car can still be completely safe. If the frame is rusted through though you could find yourself in a heap of trouble, especially when you're torquing the body with a MUCH stronger engine.

 

Just my .02.

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Guest Anonymous

Thanks for all the answers... will check back sometime on saturday. guys lets not talk anymore about rust...untill i see the body shell anyway. dont wanna jinx it you know :D

yeah, i found out all the model production dates about 10 minutes after i posted. newb's luck? :confused:

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