EZ SBC turbo manifolds

[silicone boy]

Whatever is cheap. Probably rubber hose (trucker size) and exhaust piping.

 

DJ,

 

do you realize that with that last post, you just became a HybridZ guru? Congrats. You too Heavy Z

[Guest the_dj]

O

M

G

I had no idea I had that many posts on here...that is just scary.

 

I've always been told that rubber hose won't take the heat. I've been told crazier things in my life, esp. when I was a ricer!! I say bring on the new project. You get finished with yours and expect me as the #2 install of your "kit" when it's done. I'll be around this summer once this semester of must-go-to school is over.

 

 

Have you ever though about hanging a boobie from your rearview?

[DavyZ]

You guys are blazing a trail into an affordable turbo system for the V8Z - this would really be a big step forward and would make for virtually unlimited potential.

 

 

I diverted my attention from "just" a stroker motor to a stroker turbo because I'm sick of all these ricers saying they can blow my V8 away. I got over the fact that forced induction and nitrous is cheating and started looking for solutions that are basically "junkyard" or off of EBay and can be replicated relatively cheaply... The Ford guys have this all figured out and have readily available, cheap parts. Us Chevy guys don't have very many cheap resources at all...It also helps that the Buick Grand National folks like to toss out their stock turbos in favor of upgraded versions. They are nearly everywhere...I figure that in the long run, it will save people who want massive power some money because they don't have to decide between building a stroker, using a roller cam, swapping out higher compression pistons, etc. It won't matter because all you have to do is get a low compression 350 and crank up the boost!...

 

 

I sometimes consider myself the king of cheap, although I do try to spend money in areas that will actually help--but I am a sucker for metal with a shine

 

 

I never considered anything to be "cheating," but I don't like the idea of NO2 because it dissipates, but cubes and boost don't. Therefore, boost it is.

 

A turbo 350 will be fine for me unless the opportunity to have a stroker 383 comes along. For me it is the internally balanced motor that would help a lot and keep costs down, especially with a stick shift (flywheels for a 400 not being as common or cheap as a flexplate).

 

You touched on a point that we Chevy guys don't have as many options as the Ford guys, but if you don't mind an LT1 motor, you can easily modify that motor with 8.5:1 pistons, better injectors, and a modified ECU that will allow boost. Back it up with a Walbro fuel pump and voila, you're there. Ah, but the LT1 is now old and it looks rather "ho hum" under the hood. Who cares?!? The proof is in having a faster car, right? Also, I don't trust myself in building my own FI system--the costs became too scary in my head after adding up everything and a stand alone engine management system. The Megasquirt does offer advantages, but from a time space continuum, I'd be too old to enjoy my car once I just gathered parts for the project. For now, N/A is fine anf the LT1 will follow. Who knows? Maybe something more radical later

 

Davy

[Heavy Z]

I had no idea I had that many posts on here...that is just scary.

 

I know how you feel.

 

P.S. Thanks for the headers man, no leaks and the ceramic coating is still looking good!

[Guest the_dj]

no leaks

 

That makes one of us. I hit ground on my first day driving with the new ones and they haven't made a complete seal since.

[wheelman]

Silicone Boy,

 

You want to think twice about using exhaust piping on your intake unless you have it coated. The last thing you want is corrosion to form in your intake down stream of the air filter(s). Have the piping ceramic coated or use stainless if you can find it.

 

Just a thought.

 

Ken W.

[Guest the_dj]

If the driver's side turbo is backwards, I could put the air filter on a very short stainless pipe (no noise reduction from the turbine) with a k&n directly under the hood vent on that side. No need to run the filter to the front, and it would sound wiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiicked!!!

[silicone boy]

If the driver's side turbo is backwards, I could put the air filter on a very short stainless pipe (no noise reduction from the turbine) with a k&n directly under the hood vent on that side. No need to run the filter to the front, and it would sound wiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiicked!!!

 

 

I was just thinking that last nite. That would be cool, literally.

 

 

 

As for ceramic coating, it's one of the staples around my garage. Love the stuff. I get it from Techline Coatings and it goes on really nicely.

[Guest the_dj]

You are bad for my budget.

[Turbo Meister]

Also, Turbomeister-please feel free to chime in since you've done this already

I really like the looks and placement of your LT1 turbo exhaust. Do you have enough clearance to face both compressors forward and thus open a straight shot for fresh air ? This would also give a less twisted path for downpipes. My twin Turbo setup would not work with your manifolds because my turbos are physically too large to fit. That's why I placed them in front of the engine. Remember I'm only using them because they were free from a friend. Otherwise, I would have used smaller ones. I'm checking out your progress because you could be the source for a whole bunch of Twin Turbo Chevy engines. Keep it up.

 

Hanns

[PaulR]

Hey Silicone Boy, any updates your TT installation? I picked up a set of those Corvette manifolds and really like the way they fit when mounted "up-side-down". Looks like you came up with a very neat solution. Did you have any trouble welding the turbo flange to the manifold? I'm not an expert on welding, but I thought welding to cast iron was difficult to do. BTW, I've also seen aftermarket replacement (bolt in) tube style headers for these manifolds.

 

 

Hooker (pn 2061) and SLP (Part No.: 30056) both make them and sell for about $350 to $400. Quite a bit more expensive, but they may flow a little better and be easier to modify/weld. Keep up the good work!

 

Paul

[Guest Blazer406]

I'm dieing to see the headers on the engine.... Please update or re-hyperlink to your pictures..... PLEASE!!!!

[silicone boy]

Paul,

 

I accidently bought a pair of those earlier TPI Vette headers, and they didn't work for me upside down. Maybe because it was because I have taller valve covers. Anyway, as far as welding cast iron, I didn't have that much trouble. Either that or I don't know what I'm doing. It looks OK and there are no cracks.

 

As for updates, I'll post new pictures this weekend. I've been making downpipes and they look really cool. I had to face the exhaust outlet forward and curve the downpipes forward and down before going back out again. Kinda looks like a giant wooly mammoth's tusks. The compressors are towards the firewall side. The air intake will be going towards the hood inspection hatch, per DJ's suggestion. I can make a cold air box here if I get the vented hatches, or I can even fab up a ram air box. We'll see.

[Guest Blazer406]

Paul' date='

 

As for updates, I'll post new pictures this weekend.[/quote']

 

Cummon..... the suspense is killing me...... where are the pics?

[Guest Vashe]

Hrm, maybe i'm on drugs or something, but how well would one upside down and one rightside up work? Just a idea for placement and such, prolly been thought of. My $.02

[Guest Blazer406]

Paul' date='

 

As for updates, I'll post new pictures this weekend. [/quote']

 

Can you email me the pics?

 

bdykes@bellsouth.net

[Guest the_dj]

I have a couple of concerns after a bit more thinking:

 

1) With the intake right under the hood vents, I worry about rain or someone pouring something in the engine bay through them and having it go straight into the compressor and engine. I'm entertaining a couple of possible solutions.

 

2) I'm working with the internal wastegates, but if you decided to use an external one, I'm not sure that threaded plug would be the best idea. It seems to me it would bleed off the middle ports much more than the outer ones, leaving different pressures and flow amounts from the different cylinders. Wouldn't that be a bad thing?

[Guest Blazer406]

I got tired of waiting for any pics....... so I ordered some used manifolds off of a '95vette on eBay. Ended up with about $70 shipped in the pair. Now I need to procure 2 '99 or later Ford Powerstroke turbos. They appear to be a great match for a 383 to make about 1000 hp. I'm hoping I can get 700 RWHP on pump gas on my combo when it all comes together. That ought to be hairy in a "street" car.

 

The 1000HP goal will have to be on race gas I am sure.

[Cable]

Just another request to see those pics.....

 

 

Thanks!!!

[Guest Stert]

let me get this straight.....this os on an LT1....not an LS1?

 

i was planning on putting the 6.0 truck motor (same block as LS1 from the f-bodies) and maybe trying to get one of those STS rear mounted turbos set up in the datsun.

 

but now with this just in i am starting to change my mind and maybe go for an LT1 and go from there once i can get it in the car and running, then i can build it for some boost.

 

how many cubic inches are people going with in their LT1's safely? i good safe number?

because i want more than stock cubes, since it will be a street car and i dont want all my power to come from a turbo, i want to keep the compression a little bit higher so i can keep drivability in lower rpm range......so i was going to build a 408 from the 6.0 so i was wondering what guys have been doing with the LT1.

 

i dont want a huge stroke tho.