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Cable

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Cable last won the day on September 30 2019

Cable had the most liked content!

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About Cable

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 07/28/1979

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Jackson, Ca
  • Interests
    Kicking names, taking asses.

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  1. A buddy found this car in the woods of Calaveras County in the Summer of 2018 while clearing dead trees. Hadn't been registered since at least 1992. After getting it outta there, doing a lien sale, having a VIN verification, and misc DMV hoops the car is mine. Its a late 1975 car, decent body shape considering the time it sat abandoned. Last Summer I finally got busy on the teardown and build. I knew I wanted to go full tilt on this car, especially since my wife wants to drag race it. So we backhalved it, 4 link, narrowed 9" Ford, and a Rhodes Cage. A turbo LS was always the plan, but it eventually evolved into twins. A Powerglide was also the initial transmission selected, but after a decent 4L80e was found for $100, I decided to go that route. Added a HD2 kit and all seals for good measure. Converter is a no name 10" billet from a truck I had, but it kept smoking lockup clutches, so the last time it was repaired under warranty, it became a shelf piece while my truck got a billet Pro Truck Yank Triple Ciutch. Bought a Holley Terminator X Max for engine and transmission management. The gen 4 5.3 engine came from a 2010 Tahoe with a dead DoD lifter. I pulled the motor down, changed all 16 lifters with LS7 units, hardened pushrods, BTR 660 spring kit, LS9 head gaskets, ARP head studs, and a custom 22x/22x cam.
  2. Hey guys, like the title says I am looking to buy just a front set of lowering springs. Seems I have removed a bunch of weight during my LS twin turbo conversion since the front end is a tad high.... The rear of the car has been tubbed so I don't need rear springs. I don't need front adjustable coilovers either or the added fabrication involved for type of action this car will ever see. Just a pair of drop in lowering coil springs will do me just fine. So if you know a store or retailer, even a private seller, i would appreciate the info. Thanks!!
  3. Hey guys, I am having issues with steering wheel being too close for comfort too. A bit of background, the car has been backhalved for drag racing. I am over 6' tall and not a lil dude. I already tried using a flat steering wheel and its still damn near in my chest. I am not the running the stock dash, turn signals, or stock ignition, so nothing mounted on the stock 280z column is a concern. I just want the steering wheel at least 6" further away. Ideas on how to do this easiest would be appreciated. I have a welder and associated tools. Thanks!!
  4. Digging up an old thread.... I am having issues with steering wheel being too close for comfort too. A bit of background, the car has been backhalved for drag racing. I am over 6' tall and the flat steering wheel is damn near in my chest. I am not the running the stock dash, turn signals, or stock ignition, so nothing mounted on the stock 280z column is a concern. I just want the steering wheel at least 6" further away. Ideas on how to do this easiest would be appreciated. I have a welder and associated tools. Thanks!!
  5. This is awesome info since I don't have the original seats!!
  6. Another bump... Since I don't have my original S30 seats, thinking this is my best bet with my recently bought 350z seats. Almost done 12 point caging and tubbing my `75 S30. The suspension points for the 4 link and main hoop will cost some leg room as it is, but I needed something other than fiberglass/aluminum/plastic ridged race seats.
  7. Digging up an old thread.... Great writeup with pics. I am 6'0, but wanted to keep the seats as close to the floor as the stock seats (especially for helmet reasons), plus, like you my wife wants to drive on occasion (5'1"), so I need to retain adjustable seat position. Hopefully picking up a cherry pair of cloth manual 350z seats tomorrow. Unfortunately for me, my stock seats got tossed by a buddy who didn't realize I would need pieces of them.
  8. I will hold out looking for a set of OEM Z31T shafts as long as possible. Worse case, the Rockauto versions are cheap enough to live with regular street tires for a bit.
  9. I meant what Rockauto shows.... If the Rockauto pieces are only good for 300, that ain't gonna cut it. The 6.0 LS turbo setup I am tossing in the car has already made 690 rwhp at 14 psi in my K5. Eventually I am going with a backhalf with a narrowed Dana 60. Might need to run way less boost....lol.
  10. Excellent. I will hit you up later this week. How do these would with the Rockauto Turbo CV Z31 that are running the tripod setup vs the OEM cage? I thought I read you can't shorten the tripod style. I have a 280z btw. Rockauto show that one shaft at 20 5/8" and the other at 19 27/32". I wonder if it would be better to get two of the shorter shafts.
  11. You just love trying to spend other's money. NOT spending $1600 on a CV setup when a weld on adapters and brand new CV's cost less than $400. Besides, the long term plans for my car include a narrowed Dana 60 and a full backhalf tub and cage.
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