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GUDE CAMS


240zprace

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well, all I can say is that in DOHC motors, the higher the HP the more duration. like, when people start to get crazy with their SR's and RB's, out come the 256, 264 and even 272 degree cams. duration is o.k., overlap is what turbos dont like. with the 112 degree lobe centers, I think the guy at gude has a good idea. It just might work! How much is he asking for the cam? Is it a profile that is specifically made for the L series valve train geometry? I know there is a guy on here that has one in his 3.1, specifically made for L series. pushing 7000rpm redline on single springs.

 

of course, don't listen to me. I am gonna run a stock "C" stamp 256 degree cam when I get my turbo stuff all put togethor. someone said the "evil" exhaust liners would act as an anti reversion device, so I'll put that theory to work! meh, if I blow it, so be it. its only an NA short block, dime a dozen.

 

McAdam

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mack, thanks for replying. i thought no one would reply. bill gude of gude cams said this is a very good cam for the l28et. if you like more info on the 245 turbo cam he sales, he is his number 909-244-3533. call him and ask him ALL your questions and let me know. he is selling a package it includes cam, springs, lash pads, and retainer for $400

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Well putting his cam in a stock engine is pointless unless you do something with the rev limiter, its going to shut you down at 6400.

 

Also turning a stock engine to 8k would mean you have way more money then sense, they are not designed to go that high, you will need forged pistons, and a very good balance job, not to mention the BHJ balancer, and that is still a little high.

 

FWIW, I would run something a little milder. I have a little crower that is .428 lift, and 218 degrees duration at 50, with a 110 degree lobe center, and it pulls to 7k without issue. It also idles well.

 

James is running a web cam that is 254 duration, around .480 lift I believe, and he is currently the fastest L series guy on the board I know of.

 

Several of the guys are using ISKY.

 

Personally, I have heard both good and bad about Gude, but just because the guy has been doing cams for 20 years doesn't mean he's been doing them right.

 

If his cam pulls to 8k, and you get shut down at 6400, I can tell you right now, that is going to piss you off, since you will be hitting the limiter long before the engine feels like it is straining. You really don't need to turn one that tight.

 

Thats just one guys opinion. That and 35 cents will get you a phone call.

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Remeber that you'll have to replace the other stuff as well as the cam. Not like a 302 or something were you can jsut go out and buy another cam and lifters and drop it in. I think all the other parts bring it up to...$400 at least maybe more.

 

After I get my engine in the car and running good, I'll drop in a mild cam I think. Looking for 350ish HP. I think I can do that with the stock cam but would'nt a more agressive cam give me more punch? Or, wake the motor up more. I am going to use megasquirt and spark by-the-way.

 

Jason

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im thinking of getting that Web cam.

the .450 260 238 91 (part number 20-052)

 

they dont sell it as a kit, so im trying to find another company that sells the other parts needed to fit/work that cam correctly.

 

mike

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Motorsport auto has 2 cams for a turbo engine, crower can grind you one, Isky can, comp cams can. Comp cams has one really similar to mine.

 

Here are a couple of guidelines and one of the reasons I chose mine. Stock springs coil bind at about 460 lift, so anything over that requires springs. Second the larger your turbo, the longer it takes to spool, and I big radical cam will not help you with drivability.

 

Not to mention, I always wanted to have a cam in mine that sounds just a little bit healthier then stock. If I raise the idle up to about 850 rpms, unless you are very familiar with L6's you will never suspect the cam is anything but stock.

 

I guess if you saw my car, you would understand, you don't even know it is a turbo model from the outside, and almost everyone who talks to me at the track is very surprised to see it run what it runs. Only the exhaust tip would give you a clue, unless you noticed the 3 inch mandrel exhaust under there. You would have to look.

 

I guess for me, I want the subtleness of it being stealthy. Alot of times I pull up to the line without even heating the tires and just sit there. No one knows whats up, if I heat the tires, they know instantly.

 

Comp cams will grind you their 260H cam, open the lobe centerline angle to 112 degrees for 180 I believe they told me. That is essentially the cam I have. You will know its there. It will do everything you probably need.

 

If not, I can give you the grind number off mine, and crower can grind you a new billet. Then all you need is new rocker arms, you won't have to change the lash pads.

 

Good luck in your selection.

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